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/-iuCtJvT, 


Manual 


Automotive Radiator 
Construction 


and 

Repair 


Copyright 1921 



Written by 

F. L. Curfman and T. H. Leet 


3EC 15 1921 



Published by 

F. L. CURFMAN MANUFACTURING CO 
Maryville, Mo. 


O'v fc 


INTRODUCTION 

I N presenting to the radiator repair mechanic this 
manual of repair, it is fully realized that man sees but 
a small part of this world. Conditions that confront 
the reader may never have confronted the authors. How- 
ever this may be stated, that in the vast amount of cor- 
respondence carried on by the F. L. Curfman Manufac¬ 
turing Company in an endeavor to enlighten a large 
army of repair men in North America, the questions 
arising in Nova Scotia are identical with those in Cal¬ 
ifornia. The automotive vehicles have decreased the size 
of America very greatly. We therefore feel that bv 
answering in as clear and intelligent a manner as pos¬ 
sible the thousands of questions that have passed over 
the desks of this company, a great aid will be given to 
the repair of automotive radiators. 

It is not the purpose of these pages to attempt to 
solve all the difficulties incident to radiator repairing, 
but by a practical talk on radiator construction and by 
proven methods on typical jobs the beginner is to be 
given a working basis. The experienced man may also 
receive valuable bits of information. The purpose further 
is not an attempt to give all methods, but only some val¬ 
uable ones. The repair man who can not adapt methods 
to his local conditions is not a competent man for ra¬ 
diator repairing. 

The attempt to explain in detail the construction of 
tools and other equipment will not be made. The pri¬ 
mary motive in the mention of the tools is to explain 
their use. The mechanic, if he be a mechanic, can easily 
construct all the lion-purchasable equipment. 

The stress laid on the study of detail in radiator con¬ 
struction we wish to emphasize. This knowledge of con¬ 
struction has for its purpose the enlightenment of the 


repair man. It is not the intent and purpose to judge 
the merits of construction in any certain stvle of radiator 
or radiator part. Nor is it designed that we parade the 
faults of any particular product of any certain manu¬ 
facturer. Service is the whole aim. If there be a ra¬ 


diator that is leak proof or faultless the life of this 


volume is short, since all water cooled motors will adopt 
that particular faultless construction. Then the radiator 
repair man will pass into the same class with the de¬ 
throned liverv stable boy. 


The authors having originated in rural communities 
reali ze the difficulties that arise thru the lack of facil¬ 
ities. The city repair man enjoys a large number of 
assistants in the way of gas, water supply and artificial 
light. The largest amount of car owners have been found 
in thickly populated sections but the farmer has added 
the automotive vehicle to his necessities. This fact with 
the advent of the aeroplane makes it incumbent upon 
the village repair man to meet the demand of the times. 

It is our desire to stress the fact that few towns are 
so small nor so lacking in facilities that the repair, re¬ 
building, and recoring of radiators is not a practical 
possibility. The instruction attempted here is framed 
for the small town mechanic the same as it is for city 
shops. The speed gained by the use of the facilities in 
cities is offset by the nearness of the small town shop to 
the owner. The time necessary for the transportation 
of the radiator to the city is greater than the decreased 
speed of repair possible in the small shop. 

There has been too much stress placed on tools and 
too little credit given to knowledge. A poorly informed 
workman with the most up-to-date tools is a poor match 
for an educated mechanic with the crudest of equipment. 
Modern equipment is necessary to meet competition, but 
knowledge is necessary to continue in business. 


TABLE OF CONTENTS 

CHAPTER 1 

MATERIAL USED IN RADIATOR CONSTRUC¬ 
TION . 

1. Copper. 

2. Brass. 

3. Steel and Iron. 

4. Solder. 

5. Flux. 

6. Paint. 

CHAPTER 2 


RADIATOR CONSTRUCTION. 14 

7. Tubular Radiators. 

8. Honeycomb. 

9. Radiator Supports. 

CHAPTER 3 

LEAKS IN RADIATORS. 44 

CHAPTER 4 

CLEANING RADIATORS. 45 

10. Cleaning- to Restore Radiation. 

11. Cleaning to Solder. 


12. Cleaning to Remove Circulation Obstruction. 

CHAPTER 5 


TINNING. 56 

CHAPTER 6 

TESTING. 59 

13. The Air Test. 

14. Marking Leaks. 

15. Water Inside the Radiator. 

16. The Eye Test. 

CHAPTER 7 

THE SOLDERING IRON. 71 


17. Patching a Crack in Radiator Tank. 

18. Resoldering a Seam. 

19. Resoldering a Fitting. 

20. Resoldering a Tube into the Header. 

21. Repairing a Leak Around a Stud. 

22. Cutting a Tube out of the Circulation. 

23. Repairing Tubes Broken by Freezing. 

24. Resoldering Face Seams in Honeycomb Core. 

25. Repairing a Puncture in Tube Wall. 

26. Resoldering the Header Strip to Honeycomb Core. 

27. Removing and Replacing the Bottom Tank Header. 

28. Soldering Gasoline Tanks. 









CHAPTER 8 


. 91 


THE TORCH. 

29. Removing and Replacing Overflow Tubes. 

30. Removing and Replacing Filler Neck. 

31. Removing and Replacing Tank Support. 

32. Support of Overland Four. 

33. Tie Rod Bracket Ford Radiator. 

34. Capping Rivet in Tie Rod Bracket. 

35. Removing and Replacing Hose Connection. 

36. Resoldering Tubes in Top Tank. 

37. Replacing and Anchoring Top Tank Braces. 

38. Repairing Cracked Header. 

39. Removing and Renewing Bottom Tank Header. 

40. Resetting Top Tank, Ford Radiator. 

41. Frozen Tubes. 

42. Soldering Frost Broken Tubes with Small Flame Torch. 

43. Soldering Frost Broken Tubes with Flood Flame Torch. 

44. Removing and Installing Tubes. 

45. Installing Tubes in Radiators Having Cast Tanks. 

46. Installing Finned Tubes. 

47. Removing Brass Tubes. 

48. Splicing a Tube. 

49. Resoldering Face Seams in Honeycomb Core. 

50. Repairing Puncture, Crack or Other Hole in Tube Walls 

of Honeycomb Core. 

51. Resoldering Header in Honeycomb Core. 

52. Resoldering Core to Tank. 

53. Installing Section in Honeycomb Core. 

54. Core Damaged by Lateral Strain. 

CHAPTER 9 

REBUILDING AND RECORING.146 

55. Recoring Ford Radiator. 

56. Straightening a Bent Radiator. 

57. Finishing. 


CHAPTER 10 

POURING.165 

58. Equipment. 

59. Pouring Frost Broken Tubular Radiators. 

60. Repairing Loosened Bar by Pouring. 

CHAPTER 11 

ADVERTISING.176 

CHAPTER 12 

SUGGESTIONS TO THE REPAIR MAN. 


.180 







CHAPTER 1 

MATERIAL USED IN RADIATOR CONSTRUCTION 

I T IS advisable in repairing any article that the work¬ 
man have a knowledge of the material with which 
that article is constructed. In the finished radiator 
the following materials are found: copper, brass, mal¬ 
leable steel or iron, solder, and paint. The flux used 
while not a permanent material is so closely allied to the 
other materials that some mention of its nature and 
function will be necessarv, it is therefore included. 

1. Copper— Copper is a base metal. It is the best 
conductor of any of the metals included and is a favorite 
metal for the construction of tubular cores. It will en¬ 
dure much vibration while in a dead soft state. Anneal¬ 
ing, or softening, is accomplished by heating and sudden 
cooling, just the opposite of steel. Vibration, hammer¬ 
ing, rolling, or bending hardens the metal. The adhesion 
of solder is not great. In order to secure a good joint the 
contacting surfaces should be well tinned prior to solder¬ 
ing. Copper is attacked very slightly by mnratic (hy¬ 
drochloric) acid which is usually employed as a cleaner. 
A copper radiator will be injured but very slightly by 
an acid bath. The action of the acid may be accellerated 
by heating the metal for cleaning. 

2. Brass— Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. It 
is a good conductor, there being little difference in the 
radiating qualities of a brass and a copper radiator. Its 
ability to withstand strain or vibration is greatest when 
in a dead soft state. It is annealed like copper. The ad¬ 
hesion of solder to brass is greater than to copper. It 
may be worked only when cold. This is very important 
to the beginner. No attempt should be made to bend 
brass while hot as it is rotten and will break easilv. 
Brass is more readily attacked by muriatic acid. After 
the acid is used in any cleaning operation the brass 


8 


Material Used in Radiator Construction 


should be washed. A solution of lime water, lye water 
or caustic soda solution will neutralize the action of the 
acid, otherwise the brass will be deteriorated by the con¬ 
tinuous eating effect of the acid. 

3. Steel and Iron—Steel or iron in castings is used 


in construction; in some cases the entire tank is cast, in 
others only the hose connections, tie rod brackets, stud 
bosses or nuts and other tank fittings. These fittings 
are protected by a coating of solder commonly known as 
tinning. This is very important as a preservative agent. 
It is also important in order that the joint between these 
castings and the tanks may be readily filled with solder. 

Sheet steel while occasionally used to construct the 
tank is usually met with in braces, shells, and other 


parts with which the water does not come in contact. It 
is tinned or lead coated. In this case it is known as 
terne plate. 

Muriatic acid acts on steel or iron and is used to 
pickle or clean the parts preparatory to the tinning. 
The action of the acid is hastened by heat. 

4. Solder—Solder is a soft metal applied in a molten 
state to join two pieces of metal. To the radiator repair 
man, solder is a mechanical mixture of lead and tin that 
is used to unite or seal the joints between copper, brass, 
and iron. In other words solder is a metallic cement 
or glue and should be applied as thoroughly and given 
all the advantage of close uninterrupted contact until 
“set” as is given glue when it is used as a uniting agent. 
Since solder acts as a cement or glue it should form its 
joint by its introduction between the two metals and 
not by piling on outside. This solder piled on the out¬ 
side is in many cases a real detriment to the joint as it 
acts as a leverage prying the metal apart. A well sweated 
joint has all the strength it is possible to produce by 
the use of solder. 

The selection of solder is closely allied with the ques- 


Material Used in Radiator Construction 


9 


tion of proper flux. After good adhesion is affected by 
the flux it is imperative that the solder withstand the 
strain and vibration to which it is subjected. 

As hinted above the function of solder is two fold. 
First, it is used to fill and seal water tight, a joint al¬ 
ready made. The riveted joint of a hose connection and 
a lock seam illustrates this. Secondly, it is used to join 
two pieces of metal, for instance in a lap joint it is used 
as binder as well as a water seal. 


The proper proportion of lead and tin has long been 
established as 50-50. The facts are that little solder is 
half tin and half lead. Almost all solder is named some 
sort of half and half. The softest solder is about 46 
tin and 54 lead. The tenacity strength of this solder is 
the greatest of any tin and lead mixture. 

Recent tests of different proportions of lead and tin 
in solder have proved that for sticking or adhesive quali¬ 
ties as well as tenacity strength or cohesive qualities this 


46-54 mixture is greatest. It is likely that the higher 
percentage of tin has been found to work faster with 
the soldering iron, hence, its popularity. In using the 
torch this quality is mmoticeable. The greater ability 
to withstand vibration, the enemy of radiator construc¬ 


tion, in the softer grade more than offsets this working 
quality. 

The principle of application of solder is, to heat the 
cleaned and fluxed metal to the melting point of the 
solder applied. The soldering “iron” or “copper” may 
be employed. The torch flame applied directly to metal 
lias its advantages. The dipping of the part in molten 
solder produces the same result in some instances. 

Since solder when applied is in a liquid state it is too 
much to expect it to flow up hill. The joint should be in 
such a position that the solder will flow into the joint or 
seam and remain undisturbed until it freezes. 

For torch work wire solder is necessary. This can 


10 


Material Used in Radiator Construction 


Fig. 1 

Pan for Running Wire Solder 



be purchased or run successfully by the repair man. A 
pan like Fig. 1 for melting and running operates well. 
This pan is constructed by turning edges one and one- 
half inches wide on three sides forming two bread pan 
corners. The opposite sides are crimped to form the cir¬ 
cular portion of the bottom, a row of holes punched with 
six penny nail at the break of the end. These holes 
should be one-half inch apart. The solder is brought just 
to the molten state when it is removed from the fire. The 
pan should be set on the cement floor or a sheet of iron, 
20-gauge or heavier. The back end of pan is then raised 
until the lower edge of holes comes in contact with the 


floor or iron. By moving the pan along this surface the 
solder is allowed to run from the holes. The rapidity of 
movement determines the size of wire. To prevent 
lumps, the edge of holes should be kept against the sur¬ 
face of iron or floor. A little practice will produce the 
uniform product desired. The wires are then cut in 
lengths of about 18 inches. This solder is stiffer than 
the commercial wire solder. 


5. Flux—To the beginner it may be of concern to 
know what is meant by flux. A common flux is cut acid, 
or more properly, the solution produced by allowing 
muriatic acid to eat all the zinc it will consume. This is 
no longer an acid but a salt (zinc chloride) in solution, 
to which should be added an equal quantity of pure rain 
water. It is applied to the seam after cleaning to assist 
the solder in flowing into the joint and in close contact 
with the metal. 



Material Used in Radiator Construction 


11 


The question of proper flux is probably one of the 
most important to be decided by tlie radiator repair man. 
Without proper fusion of the solder and the metal the 
repair will be of little avail. The action of this flux is 
chemical. It is necessary to remove the oxide which 
forms upon any metal when exposed to air. The ideal 
flux will not only remove the oxide but will remain as 
a film on the surface to prevent further oxidation; that 
is, it must not dry or, if it does, it must still prevent oxi¬ 
dation. This ideal flux must not hinder, but assist the 
fusion of the solder with the metal. Another point to 
be taken into consideration is the ability of the flux to 
act properly on the oxides of copper, brass, iron and 
solder, metals used in radiator construction. 


Since cut muriatic acid is so commonly used as a 
flux, one point to be considered is the purity of this so¬ 
lution when produced by the method of cutting. In or¬ 
der to produce pure zinc chloride it is necessary that the 
muriatic acid be pure, also that the zinc be free from im¬ 
purities. Commercial muriatic acid is commonly known 
as yellow acid. The yellow color is not a property of 


the pure acid but is produced by the presence of chloride 
of iron. It is unlikely that the average repair man ever 
saw a piece of pure zinc. The chemical product produced 
by cutting therefore is impure. These impurities may 
or mav not be detrimental to the solution when used as 

*y 

a flux. When cut acid is used as a flux, it is necessary 
to renew the flux on the seam frequently as the water 
evaporates rapidly, leaving the dry chloride which does 
not serve as a flux. This property of cut acid is well 
illustrated by the fact that the tinner habitually applies 
more flux when changing irons. The heat from the iron 
has dried the flux and he knows the solder will not take 
at the point where the iron was removed unless the flux 
has been renewed. The chances are that in applying the 
cut acid the seam will not be wetted inside. The result 


12 


Material Used in Radiator Construction 


is that at this point the seam will be skinned over and 
not soaked with solder. It may he stated that the addi¬ 
tion of glycerine and alcohol to cut acid will prevent 
this drying to some extent. A mixture of one part alco¬ 
hol and four parts glycerine added to five such parts 
of cut acid is about right. 

Cut acid will act properly on all metals used in ra¬ 
diator construction. The drying feature however makes 
it a poor flux for tinning the malleable castings. 

By trial the workman can choose the flux, either 
*/ 

home brew variety or commercial, that best meets his 
needs. It may be stated that of the known flux bases 
that cut acid (zinc chloride) and sal ammoniac (ammo¬ 
nium chloride) are present in almost all commercial 
fluxes. The claim that they are not acid is true since 
cut acid is not acid at all but a salt, as is sal ammoniac. 
There are numerous coagulants or detergents added that 
give the commercial flux the more marked ability to 
cleanse and float away the oxides and other foreign mat- 
ter together with the non-drying feature. Some fluxes 
perform these functions after having been dried on the 
metal. Another point that will appeal to many is the 
non-fuming property of commercial flux. 

Cut acid alone hardly meets the requirements of a 
flux, when the torch is used as a soldering tool. The ad¬ 
dition of other liquids to the cut acid makes the expense 
of the compound as great as the commercial flux to saw 

t j 

nothing of the bother. 

That commercial flnxes are to be had that produce 
strong joints, the results of such experiments may be 
quoted. By thorough and impartial tests, joints sol¬ 
dered with commercial flnxes were found to break at a 
strain of from 14,000 to 18,000 pounds per square inch 
while cut acid joints broke at a strain of 6,000 pounds 
per square inch. 


Material Used in Radiator Construction 


13 


6. Paint—Paint is applied primarily as a finishing 
touch to give a good appearance to the repair job. This 
is a point too important to be overlooked or neglected. 
A good job of repair work may be a poor advertisement 
if the radiator looks messy. When the owner puts his 
hand in his pocket to pay the bill it hurts less if he has 
a radiator that looks like new. 

Any coating of paint upon the cooling section of a 
radiator is detrimental to radiation. Therefore a paint 
that is not insulating should be used. A gloss paint 
should never be used, lamp black mixed with japan, tur¬ 
pentine or gasoline is best. This dries quickly prolong¬ 
ing the job but little, giving a flat black effect, as on new 
radiators. 


CHAPTER 2 

RADIATOR CONSTRUCTION 


I N order that any article may be repaired satisfactorily 
it is necessary that the construction and function of 
the article be thoroughly understood before the re¬ 
pair is attempted. Internal combustion engines operate 
to the best advantage when the entire engine is warm. 
It is necessary that some method is used to prevent the 
engine from over heating. Water is most commonly 
used as a cooling agent. The radiator is introduced in 
the cooling system to keep the water from being heated 
to the boiling point. 


The radiator as now used on aeroplane, automobile, 
truck and tractor consists of two water tanks with a wa¬ 
ter cooling core between the two. The upper or hot wa¬ 
ter tank is connected by a hose connection to the top of 
the water jacket about the cylinders of the motor. The 

lower or cold water tank is connected by a similar hose 

«/ 

connection to the lower portion of the water jacket of 
the motor. 


This principle of construction has not been changed 
since water-cooled motors were invented. There has 
been some improvement in the construction of the parts 
but the same plan of cooling has been adhered to. The 
tanks for the most part are now drawn or cast in one 
piece, reducing the number of joints. Pressed steel 
shells are bolted over the radiator reducing the amount 
of labor necessary to produce a well finished job. These 
shells also relieve the radiator of much strain. 


Tank construction easily explains itself, hence lit¬ 
tle need be said on the subject. The cooling section is 
more intricately and delicately constructed. For this 
reason it is advisable that much study be given to this 
part in order that satisfactory repairs may be made. 



Radiator Construction 


15 


Radiator cores are constructed from very light sheet 
metal. This is necessary that the heat from the water, 
passing downward thru the small tubes may be readily 
radiated to the air when drawn thru the core. 

As will be explained further in this chapter the cool¬ 
ing section is sometimes made up of water tubes and fins 
or filler thru which no water passes. The surface of wa¬ 
ter conveying portion of the core is known as ‘‘prime” 
radiating surface. The fins or filler constitute the 
‘ 4 secondary ’ ’ radiating portion. The heat from the water 
tubes is conducted to the fins or filler and in turn is 
radiated to the passing air. This secondary radiation 
is as important a cooling agent as the primary radiation. 

Since the cooling section or core of a radiator is 
the portion that performs the function for which the 
radiator is constructed it should be kept in as perfect 
a state as possible. To repair this, pains should be exer¬ 
cised to preserve the original primary and secondary 
cooling parts, also the soldered contact between the two. 

Radiators divide themselves into two classes, ac¬ 
cording to the style of cooling section or core, the tubular 
and honey comb. 

7. Tubular Radiators—The tubular type, Fig. 2, is 
made up of a multitude of one-fourtli inch tubes acting 
as a water passage between the upper and lower tanks. 
The bottom of the upper tank and the top of the lower 
tank are known as headers. The tubes pass thru and 
are soldered to these headers. These tubes are made of 
very thin brass or copper in order to get the closest 
possible contact between the cool air and the warm 

water. They are tinned inside and out. The inside tin- 

« 

ning reduces the danger of corrosive waters. The fins 
are soldered fast to the tubes. If these fins become loose 
on the tubes or are cut out in order to make repairs the 
cooling capacity of the radiator is lessened accordingly. 

There are two classes of tubes used. The round as 


16 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 2 

Round Tube Tubular Core 


in the Ford, Dodge, Maxwell, Cadillac and others. The 
second is the oval tube as used by the Reo and others. 
See Fie*. 3. The round tube is easily broken by freezing 
while the oval tube is effected but little. The tubes are 
of two types, the seamed (Ford, Dodge, etc.) and the 
drawn tube (Cadillac). 

The majority of tubular cores are oven soldered. In 
assembling, the tinned tubes and fins with headers are 
held in a clamp in a vertical position. A layer of solder 
punched to fit over the tubes is assembled just above 
each header. This core assembly is placed in an oven 
where a temperature is regulated automatically at the 
melting point of solder. No doubt this explains the mul¬ 
titude of leaks oceuring where tubes enter the headers. 


There are two general methods of arrangement of 
tubes in the tubular core, namely; the straight row and 
the staggard row. The lower core in Fig. 2 is of the 
straight row type. In this six tubes are spaced on one- 
lialf inch centers in a row from face to face of the core. 
These rows are spaced on one inch centers across the face 
of the core. The upper core in Fig. 2 is the staggard 
type. In this two tubes are in line from front to back 
spaced on one inch centers. These pairs of tubes are 



















Radiator Construction 


17 



Fig. 3 

Oval Tube Tubular Core 


spaced on one-half inch centers across the face. The 
front tnbe of every other pair being set back on one-lialf 
inch centers from the adjoining rows. The resnlt is 
practictally the same as a four tube row in the first 
type mentioned. The exposure of the double number 
of rows to the air entering the face of radiator and equal 
distribution of fin surface per tube giving an increase 
in cooling capacity. 

This spacing of tubes is not carried out in all ra¬ 
diators. Some cores have tube rows spaced on %-inch 
centers. 


Fin arrangement is also varied. As a type, how¬ 
ever, the tubular core does not lend itself to the variation 
that is possible in the honey comb. 


8. Honey Comb—The honey comb type of corehn- 
cludes all radiator cores presenting a cellular appear¬ 
ance. There are almost countless numbers of different 






18 


Radiator Construction 


shaped cells and more being added to this already large 
number. “Honey comb” as defined when applied to 
cores, has become a technical term and will be used as 
such. It will be impossible to discuss all of these cellular 
cores. After the repair man has mastered the principle 
of a few representative types it will be found easy to 
determine the construction of any unmentioned core. 

The entire cooling section of a honey comb radiator 
is made up of a succession of brass or copper ribbons 
with the exception of a very few makes. This ribbon of 
which the core is constructed usually averages five one- 
thousandths of an inch in thickness. The manufacturer 
experiences no little difficulty in producing a ribbon of 
metal of this delicate thickness, that contains no holes 
nor overly thin places. The polished rolls in the factory 
gather burrings or grit in spite of all precautions. Any 
hard foreign matter rolled into the metal makes an in¬ 
dentation or puncture. Steel burs are rolled into the 
metal. This steel rusts out and causes leaks in the core. 
Thin places break thru under strain or from corrosion. 

The definition of “honey comb” has been riven. A 
few definitions of parts in honey comb construction may 
be useful as reference in the following pages. 

“Faces” of honey combs refer to the outside form 
of the core front and back. The majority of honey comb 
cores have no front; that is the core may be installed 
either side out. The front is made so by the placing 
of the tanks. There are some cores however that have 
dissimilar faces. In these cores the air is supposed to 
enter a certain face. This face is installed as the front. 

“Cell” will be used to denote the air passage thru 
the radiator. Cells are various shapes and in most in¬ 
stances they hold the general shape of the openings in 
the face of the core. 

“Water tubes” are the same as in tubular cores, 


Radiator Construction 


19 


namely, the water passage thru the core. They are flat 
or oblong channels formed usually by pressing two rib¬ 
bons of metal in such a manner that the offset or burred 
edges will meet for a soldered joint when one ribbon is 
laid flat on the other. The center portion of the ribbons 
are held away from one another by these offsets or burs, 
thus forming the water passage. These ribbons are some¬ 
times spoken of as tube “walls.” This water channel 
or tube has an approximate width of from one-sixteenth 
to an eighth of an inch. 

“False tubes” are not tubes at all but a single ribbon 
of metal usually of the same general shape as the water 
tube, altho they may be of a decidedly different shape. 
The false tube is sometimes called an “idle perpendicu¬ 
lar.” In some cases the edge of this ribbon is folded 
back upon itself in order to give thickness and to resem¬ 
ble the “face” of the “water tube.” 

“Laterals” are crosswise fins extending from one 
water tube to the adjoining water tube. If the core has 
false tubes they may connect the false tubes to the water 
tubes. False tubes are sometimes introduced with no 
connection to laterals. Laterals are not always placed 
horizontally. Often they extend diagonally from one 
tube to the next. They may or may not be part of the 
water tube or of the false tube. 

“Headers,” as in the tubular core, refer to the top 
and bottom end of the core where the water tubes, false 
tubes, or laterals, are so soldered as to permit no passage 
of water from the tank to the core except thru the water 
tubes. In the tubular core this is one sheet of metal 
while in honey combs it is usually made up between each 
pair of water tubes. 

“Lateral Strain” is therefore the strain exerted 
crosswise on the core. This strain li as the tendency t 
pull the face joints of the core apart or to mash the 
core side wise. 


20 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 4 

Oval Tube Cut to Show Water Course 


Since tlie principle of construction is so vital to 
the repair of the core, the matter will be presented in as 
careful a manner as possible. The flat tube tubular type 
as found in the Reo probably forms the best example of 
the connecting link between the tubular and cellular core. 
By reference to Fig. 4 notice the three flat tubes in the 
row with cross fins as any tubular core. The cellular 
core most resembling this is the one formerly used on 
the Chevrolet. Fig. 5 illustrates the construction of this 
core. “A” is a single flat tube extending from face to 
face of the core. “C” shows lap seam at back of water 
tube. “B” is a fin or filler strip formed by a series of 
90 degree breaks crosswise the ribbon of metal. This 
fin does not project in front of the tubes, but acts as a 








Radiator Construction 


21 



Fig. 5 

Flat Tube Honeycomb Core 


binder between the flat tubes. As explained, these 
crosswise fins in this square cell honey comb are known 
as “laterals.” They are attached to the sides of the 
water tubes by dipping the assembled core in a bath 
of molten solder, after the application of a flux to the 
entire face. They are not soldered fast to the side of the 
water tubes, only at the faces. The solder joint extends 
back about a quarter of an inch. This dipping also 
solders the lap seam in the water tube itself. 


The square cell construction is carried out in a va¬ 
riety of ways. Some are similar to this core while others 


are entirely different. Many of these laterals are “wing 










22 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 6 

Wingformed Laterals on Flat Tubes 


formed." They are a part of the wall of water tube. 
The metal ribbon is folded at a 90 degree angle and then 
flat back on itself and then again at an angle of 90 
degrees righting the first break. “A” in Fig. 6 illus¬ 
trates the formation of this lateral. The opposite side 
of water tube is formed by a flat ribbon of brass, “B. n 
Water from the tanks enter the water tubes at “W. ” 
The seam on this water tube differs from the one in 
Fig. 5 and is shown at “0.” The ribbon “B” also the 
lateral forming ribbon “A" are offset in opposite direc¬ 
tions, the amount of this offset determining the width 
of water tube “W. v The faces of this core are soldered 
by the dipping method. This solders the edges of water 










Radiator Construction 


23 


Z Y X Z YX 



Fig. 7 


Wingformed Laterals and Idle Perpendicular 


tubes at “O,” also tacks the laterals to the flat walls 
“B.” In order to head the water into water tubes, the 
laterals at each end are soldered to the side of wall “B" 
from front to back. This forms the header for the core. 
The point of the formation of a header by bridging from 
the side of one water tube to the next is common to almost 
all honey comb cores, and should be carefully noted by 
the beginner. 

The square cell introduces another point in honey 
comb construction, namely the idle perpendicular as de¬ 
fined. This is often called a false tube, see X in Fig. 7. 
The water tubes “Y” are formed much the same as the 
tubes in Fig. 6, except that two walls with lateral fins 
as “A,” Fig. 6, are used. A flat ribbon “X,” is inserted 
























































































































































































24 


Radiator Construction 

t 



Fig. 8 

Flat Tube with Alternating Wingformed Laterals 


as a tie for lateral fins and to give tlie square cell appear¬ 
ance to the core. The header “Z.,” is formed slightly dif¬ 
ferent than in core illustrated in Fig. 6. The end 
laterals at “Z,” Fig. 7, are straightened out flat at the 
sharp fold and sweat soldered, heading the water into 
the water tubes. 


These types of square cells are varied in many par¬ 
ticulars. Fig. 8 illustrates a variation in forming lateral 
fins. In this the laterals are spaced on the cell wall at 







formed by interposing alternate laterals of the adjoining 
water tubes. 


Another variation in the square cell construction 
is shown in Fig. 9. In this core the walls of the water 
tubes are bent so that their conjunction with other sim¬ 
ilar tubes forms the square cell. This water tube resem¬ 
bles very much the fins or filler in Fig. 5. In Fig. 9, 














































































































































































































Radiator Construction 


25 



Fig. 9 



Tubes Bent to Form Three Sides of Square Cell 


radiation is entirely prime: that is, the cooling section is 
made np entirely of water tubes “W.” The edges of 
the metal ribbons are offset at “A” to form a joint at 


7 7 


each face of the core. The lateral contacts “L" are 
soldered when the faces of the core are dipped. The 
finished appearance is shown in the section at the left. 
The walls of the water tubes are corrugated at “C.” 
This increases the cooling surface. These corrugations 
will be noted in a large number of cores. The water is 
headed into the water tubes “W” by soldering* the lateral 

o 

contact at “0” from face to face at each end of the core. 











26 


Radiator Construction 



Fig 10 

Zig Zag Tubes with Lock Seam Header 


The manufacturer also conceived the idea of bending 


the water tube zigzag in such a manner that its conjunc¬ 
tion with other similar tubes produces the cellular ap¬ 
pearance, leaving out the laterals entirely and producing 
a diamond shaped cell illustrated in Fig. 10. This core 
has no false tubes nor lateral (crosswise) fins. Every 
ribbon of brass is bent the same and offset the same at 
the edge to give water space to the tubes. 


The formation of this core is very similar to the core 
shown in Fig. 9. The air cell is square but is arranged 
diagonally in the face instead of vertically, presenting 
a diamond shaped appearance. The tubes are formed by 
offsetting the edges of the ribbon as in Fig. 9. The lateral 
connection is formed by the conjunction of the walls of 
the water tubes at the points of the diamond cell. 


The header is formed slightly different. The metal 
tube walls of the two adjoining water tubes are formed 
by bending the strip back upon itself and lock seaming 
the ends at the opposite end of the core. This makes 









Radiator Construction 


27 



Fig. 12 

Face Seam Formed by Lapping Square Edge Break 


the entrance to the water passages come in pairs and 
will be noticed in a large number of similarly constructed 
cores. 

Fig. 12 illustrates the diamond shaped cell. The 
water tubes are indicated by the arrows. The face of 
this core is cut away to show the water course thru the 



28 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 13 

Water Tubes Do Not Always Follow Face Design 


core. The face seams in the water tubes are made by 
the lapping of a bur on the edge of each ribbon forming 
the wall of the water tube. This bur, about one-sixteenth 
of an inch wide, determines the width of the water tube. 

Fig. 13 is of similar appearance; however the face 
form is not held, back in center of the core. The ribbon 
is corrugated for the water tube portion while the offset 
at the faces follows the diamond shape. The corners of 
the diamond are flattened where the adjoining tubes butt 
for the lateral joints. The hexagon honey comb is de¬ 
rived from this core. By flattening the vertical portion 
of the water tube at the lateral connections to corres¬ 
pond to length of the other four sides of the cell a hex¬ 
agon would be produced. 

There are a great variety of curves and angles used 
to produce distinctive patterns in cases of this typical 
construction. Fig. 14 illustrates a core that is, so far 
as principle of construction is concerned, identical with 
the diamond shaped cell. The water tubes are in pairs 
and each ribbon of metal forms the adjoining sides of 
two tubes. The ribbon is bent back upon itself and the 





Radiator Construction 


29 



Fig. 14 

A Variation in Honeycomb Construction 


ends seamed to form the header at the end opposite the 
bend. Notice in Figs. 10, 12, 13, the bend divides each 
pair of cells and the seamed end forms the rest of the 
header for the core. 


Some manufacturers claim that a core having both 
primary and secondary radiation is superior to the all 
primary ty pe. It can be said at least that they are able 
to produce many and varied designs by the combination 
of the different shaped water tubes and suitable laterals 
or false work to accomplish the design in mind. The 














30 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 15 

Zig Zag Tubes and Laterals Forming Hexagon Cell 


hexagon cell is produced in smaller cells and more per¬ 
fect appearance by the addition of a special formed 
lateral, Fig. 15. In this illustration the lateral “L ” not 
only cross ties the water tubes but follows the side of the 
adjoining tubes first on one side, then the other. The 
water tubes are constructed just the same as those in Fig. 
10.Notice this similarity in construction. The header“H” 
in this case is formed by lap seam and solder. The 
ends of the ribbon sides of adjoining water tubes are 
thus joined over the end of the lateral ribbon. 


The core illustrated in Fig. 16 is very similar to Fig. 
15. The water tubes “W” are zigzag and the lateral 
connection or filler is the same, except; that there is a 
false tube “F” between each pair of water tubes. This 
filler is separated at the right in Fig. 16. “A” is a 

single wall of a water tube, “B” is the lateral fin or filler 
and is bent the same as “L” in Fig. 15. “F” is the 






Radiator Construction 


31 



Fig. 16 

Perforated Metal Used to Form Laterals and False Tubes 


zigzag false tube. This false tube is the main point of 
difference in the two cores. 

The laterals “B” and false tubes “F“ are formed 
from perforated metal. In looking diagonally thru the 
core these perforations will be confusing to the beginner. 
A close study of this construction should be made. The 

4/ 

claim is made that the perforations allow a vertical as 
well as a direct front to back movement of the air. 

By the addition of the “wing formed” lateral, as 
illustrated by “A” Fig. 6, to the zigzag tubes in Fig. 10, 
the core illustrated in Fig. 17 is obtained. These wing 
formed laterals “L” are formed at the vertex of the 
angles on the zigzag water tubes. These laterals butt the 






QO 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 17 

Zig Zag Tubes with Wing Formed Laterals 


adjoining false tube inside at the vertex of the angle. 
These false tubes are ribbons bent zigzag as the tube 
walls. The laterals are butt soldered at the face to the 
wingless false tube to unite the core laterally. 


There is a marked resemblance between this core 
and the cores in Fig. 7 and Fig. 8. The “wing formed” 
laterals project alternately from the walls of the zigzag 
water tubes the same as the laterals on the straight 
water tube in Fig. 8. These laterals are butt soldered 
to the sides of the zigzag false tube “F” as are the 
laterals in Fig. 7. The main point of different is the 
zigzag tube. 

The same general appearance is produced by the 
use of a zigzag water tube in place of the false tubes 
“F.” By this change a core of practically double the 
water capacity would result. 








Radiator Construction 


33 


Fig. 18 



A Variation in Assembling Zig Zag Tubes with Wing Formed Laterals 


Another combination of the zigzag tube with wing 
formed laterals and the perforated false tube is illustrated 
in Fig. 18. This core in general appearance is the same as 
Fig. 16. The method of construction follows more closely 
the style in Fig. 17. The water tube in these two are 
identical except for length between breaks to form the 
zigzag. The false tubes are formed in the same zigzag 
lines. The difference in shape of the cell is produced by 
making the ends of the laterals butt the zigzag false 
tube at the point of the angle instead of inside the 
vertex. In order to hold the laterals in place while as¬ 
sembling and afterwards, the false tube is slit thru the 
center and so bent that it forms reverse angles at the 








34 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 19 

Cross Section Showing Water Tubes and False Tubes 


point where these laterals and false tubes meet. These 
reverse bends can be seen by looking thru the cells. Fig. 
19 is a vertical cross section of this core. The solid lines 
as “R” represent the main form of false tube. The 
dotted lines at U S” denote the reverse bends referred 
to. Notice that the reverse bends U S” hold the butting 
laterals in place at the point of the angles on false tube 
“R.” 

Another hexagon cell core is illustrated in Fig. 20. 
This core at first glance is very similar in appearance 



























































































































Radiator Construction 


35 



I 


Fig. 20 

The Idle Perpendicular as a Brace for Water Tubes 


to the cores, Fig. 15, 16 and 18. The hexagon cells how¬ 
ever in this core set on the point of the hexagon, while 
in the figures referred to, hexagon sets on the side. The 
water tubes “A” are bent to resemble very closely the 
face form of Fig. 13. Three sides of the hexagon cell 
are formed by one water tube while the adjoining tube 
with two diagonal laterals “L” furnish the remaining 
two sides. These laterals are slightly different from other 
makes mentioned. They extend back only as far as the 
offset edge of the tube wall. Notice the offset breaks 
at “X.” Really these laterals are a part of the water 
tube walls. The brass ribbon is slit, folded flat and bent 
out to form a series of hexagonal shapes connected by 
the vertical portion of the tube wall. 


























































































36 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 22 

Parallel Tubes Forming a Honey Comb 


Tlie false tube or idle perpendicular “I” is a per¬ 
forated brass ribbon inserted between the water tubes 
as a brace for the tube walls. This idle perpendicular 
is of proper width to lay vertically between the water 
tubes, extending only to inside edge of diagonal laterals 
“L” at the faces of the core. The tube walls are headed 
over the ends of this idle perpendicular. 

There are numerous cores that have the same gen¬ 
eral appearance of a particular type of radiator that 
are really distinctly different in construction. As has 

been mentioned in the introduction to honey comb con- 

*/ 

struction, most cellular cores are made of metal ribbons 
so formed and bent to produce the desired tubes and 
air cells. However there are honey comb cores that 
are assembled in a decidedly different manner. Fig. 22 





Radiator Construction 


37 



Fig. 23 

The Flat Tube with Corrugations into the Air Cell 


illustrates one of this construction. The entire core is 
made up of round drawn metal tubes laid parallel. These 
tubes are swelled at the ends into a hexagon. The sides 
of the hexagon hold the paralleled air cells apart allowing 
the water to pass entirely around each air cell. The core 
has as free horizontal passage for water as is the ver¬ 
tical passage. In order to hold the water at the sides 
of the core a metal ribbon is pressed to fit the external 
tubes. The solder joint at the faces confine the water 
to a general downward course. 

This example is not the only honey comb of this 
type as the square cell is also used. Its construction is 
the same in general principles, the only noticeable dif¬ 
ference being in the shape of air cell. 

In the square cell construction there is one honey 
comb type that presents another variation in means 
to attain an end. The cells are not always square. 
In some cases they are rectangular. This core is used 
on Buicks, Overlands and many other cars, and is 

















38 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 24 

Method of Forming the Sides of Tube Wall 


illustrated in Fig. 23. In this core the ribbon is so 
formed as to make up the sides of the two adjacent 
water tubes also the false tube or idle perpendicular 
as well as the lateral (crosswise) fins. This is all formed 
in one piece from top to bottom of core as shown by 
Fig. 24. When the core is finished, the air cells are in 
reality square tubes except that there is a corrugation 
extending into one side of each cell. This bag or cor¬ 
rugation gives the water tube greater capacity, as well 
as presenting more surface in air cell than other square 
cell honey combs. 

The manner in which laterals and idle perpendicu¬ 
lars are formed from this ribbon should be studied care¬ 
fully. By reference to the formed ribbon at “R” in Fig. 
25 the course of this metal strip can be easily traced. 
It will be noticed that a series of air cells in pairs are 
formed. The outer edges of this formed ribbon are offset 
at “P.” When these formed ribbons are laid together 
the water tubes “W” are formed. In assembling this 
core it is necessary that the entire core be dipped in 
solder, as the laterals open both in air cells and in water 
tubes. The water tubes are tinned inside and out the 
same as the tubes in tubular cores. 

The core illustrated in Fig. 26 is the same as in 
Fig. 25 except that there are two corrugations in the 




Radiator Construction 


39 



Fig. 25 

Showing Formation and Water Passage 


tube wall side of each cell. A core of this same con¬ 
struction is also produced which lias square air cells 
instead of the rectangular cells in these illustrations. 

. There are numerous special features in radiator con¬ 
struction. The claim of some manufacturers is that im¬ 
proved radiation is gained by connecting the upper and 
lower tanks by large water channels. A number of 
truck radiators have such water channels, the side walls 
of the radiator being hollow and opening into the tanks. 
In trucks the tanks and side walls are cast iron. The 
header plates are of heavy metal and are holted to the 
tanks and side channels with a gasket forming the water 









40 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 26 

Double Corrugation into Air Cell 


joint. This construction is not confined to the trucks 
however; the Paige lias a similarly constructed radiator. 
In this case the tanks and side walls are of sheet metal. 

There are numerous sectional cores used on trucks 
and tractors. These present very little difficulty to the 
repair man, however, as the owner usually removes the 
leaking sections and brings them to the repair shop to 
he repaired. They are designed and constructed to make 
repairing easy, and fall in the class with some of the 
cores described. The tubular type is more readily adap¬ 
table to this sectional division. 

9. Radiator Supports—The method of fastening the 
radiator on the car is almost universally a three point 
suspension. Two of these are at or near the bottom 
and one at the top, a tie rod passing back over the engine 
to the body. However the engine hood acts as a brace 
in many instances and helps to cause a great many leaks. 
When the body of a car is thrown in a twist the radiator 
is likewise wrenched. The support for radiators on 







Radiator Construction 


41 



aeroplane motors varies from this rule as quite frequent¬ 
ly the supporting hangers are attached at the top of 
radiator with a tie or bracing rod at the bottom. 

There are two classes of radiator support. First is 
the support that connects directly with the bottom tank 
of the radiator. The stud bolt illustrated in Fig. 27 
together with the type that has the stud bolt block or 



Fig. 28 

Strap Support Soldered to Bottom Tank 


nut on the outside of the tank are one division of this 
class. 

The supports on the Ford and Overland radiators 
represent another division. r I he Ford support is shown 



























































42 


Radiator Construction 



Fig. 29 

Shell Support 


in Fig. 28. It is a strap of iron riveted and soldered 
to the bottom of the lower tank and extends in step 
fashion to the bar thru the radiator core. The Overland 
support is a channel iron fitting the bottom tank and ex¬ 
tending beyond the ends of the tank where it bolts to 
the side member of the chassis. Since these supports 
are connected directly to the water containers, it is ad¬ 
visable that they be fastened to the car frame as looselv 
as possible, to allow the radiator play, protecting it from 
the twist of the frame. 

The second class of support is the shell support. 
Studs and sometimes the tie rod bracket are attached 
to the radiator shell. A heavy steel strap is riveted 
across the bottom of the shell in which the studs are 
placed. Sometimes brackets are riveted to the side of 
the shell, as in Fig. 29. Strips of steel (core channels) 
are soldered to the tanks along the side of the core. 
Bolts thru the hood ledges of the shell and core channels 
cradle the radiator, protecting it from direct strain. 






Radiator Construction 


43 


A great many manufacturers allowed a margin of 
safety in attaching the radiator to the chassis. The 
Ford for instance has a spring on the frame studs which 
prevents the clamping of the radiator support rigidly 
to the frame. This spring takes up the weave of the 
frame when the car is thrown in a twist. The White 
truck has heavy springs in a housing on the side of the 
radiator shell to carry the delicately constructed radiator 
as carefully as possible. 

The motor mechanics are coached on tightening 
nuts until it is difficult for the radiator repair man to 
convince him that the radiator is one part of the car that 
should not he fastened rigidly. Many a loosend stud 
bolt block would be avoided if the motor mechanic could 
be impressed with the idea of using plenty of rubber 
or leather washers and castellated nut with cotter pin 
on a radiator stud. 



CHAPTER 3 


LEAKS IN RADIATORS 


T HERE are innumerable causes for leaks in radia¬ 
tors. With the host of repair men, the cars of the 
United States continue to wear out on an average 
of three radiators per car. It is hard to tell what causes 
the most leaks. They are in the main, vibration, freez¬ 
ing, disintegration of parts, strain and shocks. 

It might be well to give a list of the location of leaks 
that the beginner be brought to realize that radiator 
repairing is not really a difficult job. This classification 
will also assist in applying the methods given later on 
in this book to the particular problem at hand. 

Tank leaks are but few. Unsoldered joints, a 
cracked or worn tank and leaks in or around the tank 
fittings cover the possible ones. Hose connections, filler 
necks, stud bolts, tank supports, drain cock plates and 
strut rod and hood rest brackets constitute the tank 
fittings. 

Core leaks in the case of tubular cores fall into five 
separate heads. Namely: frozen tubes, mutilated or 
worn tubes, vibration break of tube near the tank, a 
broken solder joint between the tube and the header, and 
the creacked header. 

Honey comb core leaks are seam leaks either in 
the face where the edges of the strips are brought to¬ 
gether or header leaks where the cells are tied across to 
head the water from the tanks into the water channels 
of the core. Cells are punctured or cracked from vibra¬ 
tion and metal fatigue. Frequently too, the joint be¬ 
tween the core and tank leaks. Very often the water 
cells are expanded and joints torn apart by freezing. 

In all there are twelve or thirteen different classes 
of leaks. Instances and methods of repair of each of 
these are given in following chapters. 


CHAPTER 4 


CLEANING RADIATORS 


C LEANING of radiators lias for its purpose three 
things: cleaning to restore perfect radiation, which 
is important to the motor; cleaning to solder, 
which is of vital importance in repairing; and cleaning 
to remove obstruction of circulation, which is not a repair 
job but will be spoken of at the close of this chapter. 

10. Cleaning to Restore Radiation— Very often oil 
is forced into the water system of a car thru a leaky 
gasket in the engine. This oil collects on the walls of 
the water tubes insulating the water from the metal 
causing the engine to over heat. The same insulation 
results from matter placed in the radiator to stop leaks 
or prevent freezing. The circulation may be impaired 
only slightly if at all. 

Radiators should be cleaned at least once a year. It 
is not necessary that they be removed from the car. In 
fact it is advisable that the entire cooling system be 
cleaned. This may be done by dissolving one pound of 
common baking soda to each gallon of water. The solu¬ 
tion is poured into the radiator and the engine run to 
heat. After heating, the system is drained. The lower 
hose should be removed in order to flush out rapidly. 
The rinse water is flushed out similarly, after which 
the hose is replaced and the system filled with clear 
water. 

11. Cleaning to Solder— Too much can not be said 
about cleaning the metal preparatory to soldering. It 
is absolutely necessary to have all dirt and corrosion off 
before a good job of soldering can be done. In most 
cases it is necessary to scrape bright with some sharp 
instrument. In radiator work there are so many dif¬ 
ferent shaped places to solder, that a variety of shaped 
scrapers come handy. A good scraper for plain surface 



46 


Cleaning Radiators 



Fig. 31 


A B 



Fig. 32 



Fig. 33 

Steel Wire Cleaning Brushes 


scraping is made by grinding a three-cornered file about 
one-third of its length until all the teeth marks are out 
aud the three edges are sharp. To make odd-sliaped 
scrapers, use old three-cornered files, heat red hot, turn 
a hoe shape on end and grind to fill need. A V-shape 
comes very handy. To scrape back of tube, flatten 
handle end of file and bend end in a circle, then grind 
inside edge. To scrape inside of tube the same shape 
is used, except end is ground rounding. After shapes 
have been formed, heat red hot and dip in water to 
temper. A little experience in shaping and using these 
scrapers soon makes it easy. 

It will be found convenient to put handles on these 
scrapers. When the handles are selected no two should 
be alike in shape. This is advised to make the tools 
easily found on the bench. All mechanics have the same 
trouble, namely: the difficulty of seeing the desired tool 

























Cleaning Radiators 


47 



Fig. 34 

Bristle Brush for Cell Cleaning 


even though it be in plain view. The scrapers them¬ 
selves being small are very easily mistaken one for the 
other. 

The steel wire brush is particularly good for clean¬ 
ing flat surfaces and in many cases around joints, such 
as castings, etc. There are numerous good wire brushes 
on the market. Fig. 31 is a good all around cleaner, 
Fig. 32 for small work and Fig. 33 for larger surfaces. 

An} r leak that has existed for any length of time is 
covered by a mineral deposit from water. This deposit 
varies in different localities but for the most part it can 
be removed by the use of muriatic acid. To speed up this 
operation scrubbing with some sort of brush will be 
advantageous. A brush like a pistol cleaner, Fig. 34, 
with muriatic acid is particularly good to clean joint of 
tubes and headers, as well as in the cell of a honey comb. 

Where the part is found to be copper and the scrub- 
bine’ does not clean readily the action of the acid will 

w * 

be accelerated if the joint is heated causing the acid to 
boil. The incrustation will boil out and the copper it¬ 
self will be attacked by the acid. Continue the applica¬ 
tion of acid with the eye dropper or swab until perfectly 
clean. 

Sheet steel or malleable castings are cleaned after 
the same fashion as copper. In cleaning the ends of core 
channels to resolder to the tanks, or tank fittings to be 
replaced, first all the rough scale is scraped off. It is 
quicker to scrape this off roughly than to remove it 
with acid. In case of pitted castings a pointed Y-shaped 






48 


Cleaning Radiators 


scraper will get down into the holes. The scale on sheet 
iron flakes off easily. After this is done heat is applied 
until the acid will boil readily. This acid cleaning is 
continued until the depressions will tin. When the part 
is retinned it will be practically as good as new, since 
the tinning will prevent further corrosion. Quite fre¬ 
quently the part may be immersed in raw muriatic acid. 
In this case it is well to remove the scale and heat the 
fitting to a redness or nearly so before plunging in the 
acid. After a short stay in the acid the iron has an even 
gray appearance and is ready for tinning. 

At times a small leak around a tank fitting may 
be cleaned without removing the part. Place the radiator 
so that the solder will flow from the joint when heated. 
With the assistance of whisk broom, or some scraper, 
brush away all the molten solder. Place the radiator 
in position so that acid will run into the joint. Heat 
the casting and apply acid. The heat will boil out the 
dirt and rust. Continue the acid cleaning until the 
solder will flow into the joint when applied. 

There are many instances where it will be advisable 
to clean the entire radiator. An instance in mind is a 
tubular core leaking from the effect of freezing. The 
common method in this instance is to boil the radiator 
in a solution of concentrated lye, caustic soda, or some 
commercial cleaner to remove paint, grease or other 
foreign matter. Lye is probably the most convenient. 
One pound can to each seven gallons of water in a boiler 
similar to Fig. 35 will remove foreign matter soluable 
in this solution. The best plan is to test different 
strengths of the solution until one is found that will 
produce results. 

A boiler can be constructed very economically in 
any sheet metal shop. This boiler is designed to use 


Cleaning Radiators 


49 



wood as tlie fuel; gasoline, oil or gas may he used ac¬ 
cording to local facilities. The tank should be made 
large enough to accommodate any ordinary radiator. 
Twenty-eight by forty-two inches will take two Ford 
radiators and any other single radiator. Twelve to four¬ 
teen inches is sufficient for depth. It will be found 
economical in small shops to have two tanks. One large 
one as mentioned and another twenty-eight by twenty- 
one for Fords. The larger tank can be removed and the 
smaller one used when only a few radiators require boil¬ 
ing. The saving in heat and cleaning compound will be 
considerable. 

The tank should be locked seamed and sweat sol- 































50 


Cleaning Radiators 


dered from inside and out, if lye is used. The lye will 
eventually eat out the solder and cause the tank to leak. 


A drain of some kind will be convenient. This drain 
should be free from short bends. A molasses gate makes 
a good drain cock. 

The cleaning solution may be used for a number 
of radiators. If the radiator is washed with the hose 
before boiling a great deal of sediment may be pre¬ 
vented from collecting in the boiler. 

About one-lialf hour to one hour of boiling is usually 
sufficient. This can be governed by the condition of 
the radiator after washing well with a hose. This method 
will not clean sufficiently to solder with the iron without 
scraping, but where lime deposit is not too heavy, solder¬ 
ing can be done with a torch. If the radiator is not clean 
it is better to repeat the boiling until very little foreign 
matter is left except the lime deposit which is not remov¬ 
able by this solution. 

The radiator is then given a bath in muriatic acid. 


A 50-50 solution is probably fast enough. Twenty min¬ 
utes in this will usually remove the lime and any remain¬ 
ing deposit. It is important that the radiator be well 
washed inside and out after the acid bath. After wash¬ 
ing, the radiator may be returned to the boiling solution 
for a few minutes to neutralize the acid. If commercial 
cleaner is used in boiler, a vat of lime water will neu¬ 
tralize the acid. If the workman does not expect to 
work on the radiator immediately it should be stored 
in a vat of clean water. This will reduce the acid re¬ 
maining in crevices also protect it from the air prevent¬ 
ing corrosion. A cleaned radiator will solder after an 
indefinite stav in clear water. 


A wood vat lined with lead is necessarv to hold 
this acid solution. Ten gallons of acid will cover the 
core of the average size radiator laid face down, in a 
vat twenty-six inches wide, thirty-two inches long and 


Cleaning Radiators 


51 


six inches deep. It will be necessary to draw the acid 
from this vat when not in use, as the acid weakens by 
exposure to the air and by the eating action on lead. 
Two five-gallon jugs or like vessels will serve to store 
this acid solution. 


The lining should be of heavy sheet lead. The 
seams should not be soldered but melted or burned to¬ 
gether as done in battery work. 

There are many special cases of cleaning that come 
up in the course of a day’s work, such as removing 
chewing gum, the many kinds of asbestos roof cement, 
sealing wax, soap, etc. 

Chewing gum is usually in comparatively small 
quantities. Apply ice or ice water and crack the hard¬ 
ened gum loose. Heat makes a sticky mess. Sealing 
wax had best be removed cold. Considerable scratching 
and picking is necessary but it is faster than heat. Gas¬ 
oline is effective but messy. 


Roof cement is met with in larger quantities but 
can best be removed cold. Ice will help usually. Boiling 
in lye will be more effective if the radiator is soaked over 
night in a vat of kerosene after the larger portion of 
this cement is removed with the scraper. 


A very little boiling water poured on soap stuffed 
in a core will dissolve it readily. Cool water will serve 
but it is slow. The doping of radiators might be spoken 
of in connection with soap. While it is poor policy for 


a repair man to advise the doping of a radiator there 
are cases where an owner is in dire need of the car when 
the repair man is unable for lack of time to repair the 
leak. The owner is sure to ask what he can use in the 
radiator to stop the leak. If he is advised not to put 
anything in it he will go elsewhere and get the kind 
of advice he is looking for. Some druggist, garage owner, 
or feed store man will sell him something guaranteed to 


52 


Cleaning Radiators 


do tlie job “just as good as solder.” In this case it is 
well to know what is used. Soap shaved into a radiator 
will stop almost any leak temporarily. The repair man 
can effect this repair and tell the owner at the same time 
it will necessitate the radiator being boiled when it is 
brought for repair. The workman can be sure that the 
dope is removed and hard feelings will not result. Soap 
is harmless and easily soluble. It is an advantage to 
the owner as well as the workman. Another thing it 
won’t stay in long. 

12. Cleaning to Remove Circulation Obstruction— 

As stated introductorily, cleaning to remove obstruction 
to circulation is not a repair job. It does arise as a 
problem to repair men however. Obstruction to circu¬ 
lation in the cores of radiators results from three causes, 
namely precipitation from impure water, scale from rust¬ 
ing sheet iron parts, and matter placed in the radiator 
to stop leaks. The latter is commonly spoken of as dope. 
The owner who allows dope to be poured in the radiator 
after reading the caution in all instruction books fur¬ 
nished by car manufacturers deserves the added expense 
of a new cooling section. 

The fact that the repair man can not know the in¬ 
gredients of the dope, makes it difficult to combat this 
problem. If only one kind were used the remedy would 
be possible, but chemical products as well as vegetable 
matter (cornmeal, flaxseed, pepper, ginger) are mixed 
with this. The resulting stoppage is of such a nature 
that a chemist would be required to determine agents 
for the removal of this mass. 

Tubular cores are the least likely to be stopped. 
They are the most readily cleaned also. By the removal 
of one of the tanks and the use of a strong wire rounded 
at the end to prevent puncturing the tube, a sure job 
may be accomplished. After the tubes are thus opened 
the radiator should be boiled in whatever solution is 


Cleaning Radiators 


53 


used in the shop. The tubes are then washed out one 
at a time with water pressure. 

Honey comb cores are far more likely to become 
clogged. The tubes, as explained in Chapter on Radiator 
Construction, are narrow. In the cores which have 
straight tubes, the stoppage is less likely to occur. If 
they do become clogged the method employed in tubular 
cores may be used, except that a strip of thin sheet 
metal with rounded end is used instead of the wire. 
Sometimes the drops of solder will have clung inside 
the tubes and the strip can not be forced thru. In this 
case, the cleaning will depend on the boiling. 

Badly clogged zigzag tubes are very difficult to 
clean. They are also more likely to become stopped up. 
The repair man will find that no method will be rapid. 
When a tube is once clogged the sediment from the 
water and the settling dope continue to fill the tube. 
A two or three inch stoppage in a zigzag tube will resist 
any method of cleaning for a long time. The liquid used 
must be given time to soak or eat thru the entire mass. 

Vegetable matter may be removed by the use of 
a compound procurable from the plumbing shops for 
removal of stoppage in sewer pipes. It is slow. The 
main objection to any such cleaning is that there is 
no certain method of knowing when the cleaning is 
thorough. This compound will not remove lime or mag¬ 
nesia deposits which are usually present. 

Some explanation of this deposit might be of in¬ 
terest since it enters into so many of the cleaning opera¬ 
tions. Ever since the steam engine was invented there 
has been an army of chemical engineers trying to solve 
the problem of boiler incrustation or scale. Very little 
cf the available water is free from mineral deposit 
which is precipitated upon heating the water. The 
housewife has the same deposit in her teakettle. These 
chemists have found some methods of removing the de- 


54 


Cleaning Radiators 


posit from boilers but they are slow. Since the question 
has been difficult the solution lias been to avoid the de¬ 
posit rather than to clean it out. In all modern power 
plants the water source is purified. The repair man is 
not able to do this but he does have one very sure and 
efficient method of procedure, namely, the installation 
of a new cooling section. 

Rust scale from terne plate used in tank construc¬ 
tion is one of the things that stops the core and is not 
a fault of the owner. Some manufacturers use this steel 
plate for splashers or for stiffening plates inside the 
tank where hose connections are riveted. Tractor radia¬ 
tors are sometimes made entirely of terne plate excepting 
the core. No doubt this will be discontinued as buyers 
become educated to the poor construction. 

This scale flakes off and is shaken down into the 
tubes. The deposits from the water collect on this. This 
stoppage occurs at the upper end of the core. It may 
be removed by a boiler compound procurable from any 
steam fitter. About twenty-four hours will be necessary 

%J 4 / 

for its removal. 

In case the tanks are entirely of terne plate it is 
advisable that new brass tanks be installed. In this case 
the core will be removed and can be cleaned more readily. 
If onlv a small amount of steel has been used, this steel 
part should be removed by all means. 

This method is advised for the average job. The 
radiator is boiled in caustic soda or lye after which the 
hose is inserted in the lower hose connection and the 
radiator flushed. The flow of the water will test the 
circulation. The radiator is then placed in the acid vat 
and allowed to remain from a half hour to an hour. Tt 
should be raised from the vat and replaced several times 
during the bath in order that the acid may be stirred. 
After a thorough washing inside and out the circulation 
is again tested as before. It is then returned to the soda 


Cleaning Radiators 


55 


or lye solution for a few minutes to neutralize the acid. 
This solution is washed out thoroughly. After this the 
radiator is thoroughly dried, not only until the outer ap¬ 
pearance is dry but long enough that all matter inside 
is thoroughly dry. The radiator is then inverted and a 
large volume of air at low pressure is blown thru the 
core, by connecting the air hose to the lower hose con¬ 
nection. While the air is being blown thru, the radiator 
is jarred by tapping along the joint of the core and the 
upper tank. Any remaining sediment will be blown and 
shaken out. So long as dope is wet it is in a swelled state, 
when dry much of it will fall out. The drying must be 
thorough, however. Sometimes a large amount may be 
blown out before any chemical cleaning is attempted. 

The repair man will find it to his advantage how¬ 
ever to persuade the owner to have a new core installed. 
Everv new core installed under these conditions adds 
one more owner to the educated class. If dope is cleaned 
out the owners are given the impression that doping is 
all right since his repair man can remove it. The repair 
man who has his own and his customer’s good at heart 
will not attempt to establish a reputation as a laundry 
man when his business is repairing. 



CHAPTER 5 

TINNING 

T HE process of coating the surface of a metal with 
solder is known as tinning. This tin, or more prop¬ 
erly speaking solder coating, is applied for two pur¬ 
poses. First it is used as a preservative means. Terne 
plate is sheet iron or steel, tin or lead coated to prevent 
rust. The tank braces, core channels, and shells of ra¬ 
diators are of this material. Malleable castings are tinned 
to prolong the life of these parts. 

The second purpose of tinning is more important 
to the average radiator repair shop. Tinning in this 
instance is a means to good mechanical construction. A 
hard and fast rule to be laid down, is that no joint 
should be soldered until the contacting surfaces are 
tinned preparatory to soldering. In attempting to solder 
two untinned surfaces the mechanic can never tell where 
the solder is hindered from soaking into the seam. When 
tinned surfaces are being soldered the dependence is not 
placed on the flux acting properly on the oxides inside 
the seam. Tinned surfaces will be sweat together if flux 
is not applied. This does not mean however that the 
joint should not be well fluxed as a stronger joint will 
result with the use of a flux. Make it the rule to tin 
first. The mechanic who tins well is advertising his 
business aside from the speed added to the soldering 
operation. 

It will be of benefit to explain methods of tinning 
on different metals for different purposes. Tinning as 
a preservative is almost universally done by dipping in 
solder or tin baths. To illustrate, the lower tank sup¬ 
port for a Ford radiator, Fig. 36, is first cut and punched 
from two and one-quarter inch black hoop iron. After 
forming, this support is pickled in raw muriatic acid. It 


Tinning 


57 


is allowed to remain in this acid until it has an even 
gray appearance. It is then washed in water, dipped in 
flux, then into molten solder. 



Fig. 36 


This method can be used by the radiator mechanic 
to advantage. A solder vat as illustrated in Fig. 37 can 
be used in any tin or radiator repair shop. Pan is of 
twenty gauge black iron with folded “bread pan” 
corners. The stand is constructed of % inch by 1 inch 
strap iron, with heater shield, which is of a lighter gauge 



Fig. 37 

Tinning Bath 


sheet iron. The heater may be gas or as illustrated a 
painter’s common blow torch. This can he arranged as 
handy as the local facilities permit. Use for this will be 
explained in various jobs taken up in following chapters. 

In tinning malleable castings or other iron or steel 
parts, clean the part with acid as advised in chapter on 
Cleaning. Dip part in flux and immerse in molten solder. 
In doing this insert part slowly as the flux will cause 








58 


Tinning 


solder to spatter. Allow it to remain until the bubbling 
ceases. This is necessary in order that all moisture, 
namely acid, flux and water, be expelled. Upon exam¬ 
ination if there are spots untinned dip into the acid 
again while hot. The boiling acid removes the scale 
rapidly, repeat the wash, flux and solder bath. After 
tinning, the surplus solder should be immediately struck 
off using a clean rag. Old castings can be reclaimed in 
this manner and stored for future use. The part will 
be preserved and ready for immediate use when occasion 
arises. 

It is not absolutely necessary that the article be 
dipped to tin it. The soldering iron or torch will produce 
the same results but not as rapidly. 

In shops where lead coated iron or terne plate is 
not carried in gauges heavy enough to make tank braces, 
core channels, or other sheet iron parts, galvanized iron 
can be used by first removing the zinc coating with 
muriatic acid, washing the piece and tinning. Galvanized 
iron makes very poor radiator parts until it is made over 
into tinned iron. Very often it is only necessary to tin 
the portion where the solder joint is to be made. 

Copper and brass are easier to clean but it is just 
as necessary that tlie} r be tinned. Copper being a good 
conductor dries the flux rapidly, therefore does not take 
the tinning as perfectly. This argues for the advisability 
of tinning preparatory to soldering. The joint will be 
perfectly made if it is tinned. Brass takes solder better 
but should be tinned, as it is often the case, that too much 
heat will produce the same results, mentioned in the 
case of copper. Aside from this a cleaned portion may 
look clean and still not be in shape to take tinning. 


CHAPTER 6 

TESTING 

T HERE are two methods of testing: one by intro¬ 
ducing air in the radiator, immersing in water, locat¬ 
ing the leaks by the bubbles. The other by filling the 
radiator with water and locating the leaks by the mois¬ 
ture or stream of water as it flows from the leak. 

13. The Air Test— This test is made by plugging 
up the hose connection, filler neck and other openings 



Fig. 38 

Bushing and Nipple 


in the radiator, placing an air pressure tube on the 
overflow pipe or connecting with % inch nipple or the 



Fig. 39 

An Expanding Rubber Stopper 


nipple and bushing to the drain cock plate, as shown by 
Fig. 38. Expanding rubber plugs are almost indispen- 














60 


Testing 



Fig. 40 


A Radiator Ready for Testing 


sable for stopping the hose connections. Fig. 39 illus¬ 
trates one of these plugs, altho discs of tin may be sol¬ 
dered over the openings. Fig. 40 illustrates a radiator 
ready for testing. The radiator is immersed in a tank 
of water. Leaks are located by tracing down the source 
of the bubbles. 

Since testing is a sloppy job it is well to arrange 
the shop equipment in such a manner as to avoid the 


















Testing 


61 



Fig. 42 


Convenient Bench Arrangement 



Showing Lattice and Drain in Work Bench 


necessity of wearing rubber boots. Figs. 42 and 43 illus¬ 
trate a very desirable arrangement. The bench, 32 
inches wide, 6 feet long and of height to suit workman 
is placed end to the wall under or just back of a window. 
This allows the light to fall upon the radiator at the 















































































62 


Testing 



Fig. 44 


Adjustable Bench Light 


most desirable angle. The top of bench is tight in order 
that all solder may be saved. This top is cut in half 
and the section near the tank hinged at the back. For 
dry work the top of bench is then smooth as in Fig. 42. 
A hole in this hinged section large enough to take the 
common run of filler necks is convenient. The radiator 
will set in any position with the aid of a prop stick. A 
removable lattice is arranged under this lid, and beneath 
it a sheet iron pan. The pan should slope gently to 
one of the back corners where the drain “E” to the 
sewer is connected. Solder falling in the pan will not 
be washed away. As the pan gets loaded with solder 
it can be reclaimed. 

The tank for testing should be at least 36 inches bv 
48 inches by 12 inches to 15 inches deep. There are com¬ 
paratively few localities where the large radiators are 
common but the popularity of large trucks and tractors 
makes it necessary to have a tank that will accommodate 
the largest radiator. 


























Testing 


63 



Fig. 46 

Rotary Air Compressor 


As there are so many inside leaks and few shops 
have sufficient light to locate them, some sort of artificial 
light is necessary. An electric light illustrated in Fig. 44 
is worth many times its cost. It stays in any place it 
is put, don’t swing and reaches hack under a radiator. 
It should be fastened at back of bench and arranged to 
move out over water tank. A handy mechanic can con- 
struct one after the lines of this cut. A head light illus¬ 
trated in Fig. 93 is particulaly convenient for tubular 
radiators. This is a regular 110 volt lamp on an exten¬ 
sion cord and attached to an asbestos padded cap. Notice 
cord down the workman’s back and attached bv short 
strap to button on overalls to relieve the head of the 
drag on the cord. This light saves a great deal of time 
as it is always in position to give the best light on the 
spot before the eyes. 

The air pressure may be obtained by a common 
bicycle pump or more conveniently from a compressor 
of some sort. If rotary compressor in Fig. 46 is used no 
pressure tank is needed as the relief cock “A” can be 
opened with all others closed until the desired pressure 
is registered on pressure gauge. It may be mentioned 
that two air lines are frequently used when a rotary com¬ 
pressor is the source of supply. One is for torches and 



64 


Testing 


one for testing. The air pressure system used by garages 
for tire filling consisting of pressure tank, compressor, 
motor, gauges and reducing valves, fills the requirement 
when a number of men are employed. 

The most practical pressure for testing is from five 
to ten pounds. The former is sufficient and in most 
cases better. Frequently a leak will appear on a low 
pressure when a higher one expands the metal and closes 
the joint. 

The locating of tire leaks after the radiator is sub¬ 
merged is the real difficulty to the beginner. It may be 
stated also that old men at the lousiness have the same 
trouble however not so frequently. This is the time that 
knowledge of radiator construction comes in most hand¬ 
ily. Often a leak is not to be seen but the knowledge of 
the possible source of trouble solves the problem. The 
general rule for locating is to raise the radiator in the 
tank until the source of the bubbles is at the surface of 
the water. In a radiator that has a multitude of leaks it 
is best to locate as many large ones as can be found easily. 
Repair these and test for more. Quite frequently the 
large leaks can be located easier if a lower pressure is 
used. Care must be exercised in this case that water 
has not entered other leaks which may seal the lower 
ones in future tests. It is a good rule on the last test 
to turn the radiator over in the tank. Another difficulty 
is met when two leaks occur exactly opposite one another, 
one near the front of the core and the other at the back. 
These can frequently be found by standing the radiator 
on edge or nearly so allowing the bubbles to come up 
the face in the case of honey comb cores. The tubular 
cores can be raised until only the lower rows of tubes 
are immersed in the water and the leak marked by guess. 
A hooked shaped scratcher will locate the opened seams 
at the back of the tube. Very small leaks are located by 


Testing 


65 



Fig. 47 

Tester for Tubular Tractor Radiators 


standing tlie radiator in such a position on the bench 
that the supposed location can be covered with flux 
squirted on either with eyedropper, oil can or flux squirt- 
er. The flux will foam to some extent. By placing the 
bench light at the back of the radiator the interior of the 
cells or inner tubes can be easilv seen. 


Heavy truck and tractor radiators frequently have 
cast iron tanks and when shipped for repair come to 

the workman minus the tanks. In ease the core is honev 

«. 

comb, dummy tanks or plates with a tube for air hose 
must be bolted or soldered to the headers. Then the 
test proceeds the same as any radiator. In testing tub¬ 
ular cores however a test tool, Fig. 47, with different 
size rubber cups is very convenient and speedy. 


This tool connected to a five pound air supply is 
used as follows: submerge the core in water tank with 
the ends of the tubes at right and left. It is convenient 
to have a rest in the bottom of tank. A one by four inch 
board wired on two paving brick one at each end to act 
as legs and weights, serves the purpose. Place this rest 
crosswise the tubes so that the core is balanced. Rock 
the right end of tube out of water and place the tester 































66 


Testing 



Fig. 4 $ 

Test Cup in Place 


rubber cup over the end of tube as shown in Fig. 48, 
allow the water in the tube to be blown out by the 
air pressure. The radiator is then moved to a level posi¬ 
tion entirely covered by water. With finger of left hand 
close end of tube. If the tube lias been frozen the 
bubbles will indicate the fact out in the core. If the 
tube is broken near the header opposite the test plug 
bubbles appear near that header. If bubbles appear 
near the header where the test plug is held it indicates 
either a broken tube or a loose joint between the tube 
and header. In this case place the test plug on the 
opposite end of tube closing the tube with finger of 
right hand. If the bubbles continue a broken tube is 
indicated, if not the soldered joint is leaking. After a 
little experience these broken joints can be detected with 
the eye. 

%j 





Testing 


67 



Fig. 49 

Suggestion for Marking Leaks in Tubular Core 


14. Marking Leaks—Some mention of a method of 
marking leaks may not be amiss. It is good practice 
to adopt a uniform s}^stem of marking, one that meets 
the conditions. Having only one method prevents for¬ 
getting what a certain mark means. For tank leaks 
the scratclier is most adaptable. For honey comb cores 
a strip of tin or a small wire bent in clothes pin fashion 
stays put. In marking inside leaks have one end of 
the strip or wire project farther than the other in the 
clothes pin. When this is placed on the edge of a cell 
the long end will indicate the side of cell leaking. 

A method on tubular cores is suggested by Fig. 49. 
The matches have been inserted at the end of core to 
illustrate the method of wedging the match between the 
tubes. The burned match “A” indicates a leak in the 
first tube in tube row “X.” It is held in place by 
inserting it under the third tube in the next row. “B” 
indicates a leak in the second tube in row “Y,” the 
burned end of match is inserted first. “C” indicates a 









68 


Testing 


leak in third tube in row ‘‘Z’ 1 having the burned end of 
match outward. The direction of slope of the match 
indicates the side of tube which should be up when sol¬ 
dering. Notice “A” and U C” indicate leaks on the one 
side of tube while “B” indicates the radiator must be 
reversed to solder. These matches are inserted between 
fins either one at each end of leak, or one at center of 
leak is usuallv sufficient. 


15. Water Inside the Radiator—The wet or air pres¬ 
sure test is not infallible by any means. Sediment and 
lime * deposits collect about leaky joints. This foreign 
matter is pressed into joints by air pressure sealing the 
leak when the radiator is tested. The leak at the joint 
of tubes and header is one that often refuses to show 
under air pressure. 


For this reason it is important for the repair man 
to dry the radiator after he has finished repairing the 
leaks found by air pressure. When the radiator is thor¬ 
oughly dry remove the plug from filler neck and fill 
with water, being careful not to run it over or spill on 
the outside. A good arrangement for holding the ra¬ 
diator in an upright position is illustrated at “D” in 
Fig. 42. This is a piece of three quarter inch gas pipe 
three and one-half feet long. This pipe is arranged to 
slide back out of way, flush with side of bench. The box 
used as a seat and radiator rest about the bench is set 
under the pipe parallel with it. By setting the radiator 
on this box and leaning it against the pipe both sides 
can be examined carefully for leaks. The bench light 
swings conveniently both to front and back of radiator. 
Place the hose from air line over lower end of overflow 
tube and hold palm of hand over filler neck. Allow a 
five pound pressure to pass in against the water. It is 
true that only occasionally a radiator will be found that 
leaks after a test with air. But those occasional leaks 


Testing 


69 


are the ones that spoil all that good advertising the re¬ 
pair man has spent hard cash for. The fact that there 
is a certain and almost infallible test to which one can 

o 

work is the most satisfying thing about the business. 
There are so many repair jobs on a car that have no 
certain test. This has long made the car mechanic’s 
life a nightmare. Full advantage of this certain test 
should be honestly taken. 

16. The Eye Test —In the general run of work, pro¬ 
gress can be made on many radiators by soldering all 
visible leaks before any test is made. Lime or magnesia 
deposit caused by the evaporation of water indicate these 
leaks. This deposit will often close a leak to air pressure 
which will show wet when the radiator is filled with 
water. The careful mechanic will repair any joint that 
appears to be the source of this deposit. 

Often it will be necessarv to estimate the cost of 

%> 

a repair before the radiator has been taken off the car. 
This can onlv be done by outward examination or bv 
an eve test. This eve test or ability to calculate the 
number of leaks and condition of a radiator will come to 
the repair man by experience. Of one thing he may be 
certain and that is there are as manv leaks as can be 
seen, and an estimate should be made based on there 
being more. It is difficult to judge the extent of an 
incdcle leak. TV side from the signal of deposit, effect 
of froozing, condition of shell and support, also the 
material from which the radiator is constructed will form 
the basis for this calculation. 

In manv instances soldering the leaks onlv partially 
finishes the repair of a radiator. Before a radiator is 
allowed to leave the shop, the support whether it be con¬ 
nected direct to the radiator or to the shell should be 
in condition to carry it properly. If the radiator is 


70 


Testing 


of the type which has shell soldered on, and the solder 
coming loose was primarily the cause of the leak, the 
shell should he resoldered. If the shell is bolted to the 
core channels, the channels should be soldered rigidly 
to the tanks and so strengthened or braced that they 
will not become loosened and allow the radiator to be 
worn or shaken to pieces. The connection for the tie 
rod, either to the top tank, the inlet connection or shell 
should be reinforced to withstand the thrust or pull at 
this point. The permanency of a repair reflects to the 
credit of the workman. 


CHAPTER 7 


THE SOLDERING IRON 


W HILE this chapter is titled ‘ 4 The Soldering Iron ? ’ 
the methods of repair can be applied by the torch 
user. This is also true of the following chapter. 
The torch methods are in the main easily applied to the 
soldering iron method. Where there is a distinct dif¬ 
ference in method, the work is explained in both chap¬ 
ters. Otherwise the mechanic mav easily deduce the 
soldering iron methods from those explained under The 
Torch as well as soldering iron methods may be applied 
to the torch. Information placed in any certain chapter 
is not so placed because it is of value only to the method 
being discussed but may be applied by the reader. The 
mechanic using the soldering iron is advised to study 
the suggestions in other chapters. 

Radiator repairing as practiced in the largest plants 
reveals nothing new to the average tinner doing general 
job work if we except one thing and that is radiator 
construction. Even this can not be said to be entirely 
new. However it is something that one taking up the 
work must learn. The repair work on radiators is a 
matter of good soldering, no more, no less. 

Any radiator repair, can, and is being made with 
the soldering iron. The torch was not introduced into 
the radiator repair business to enable the workman to 
do the work, but to accomplish it in a fraction of the time 
required by the soldering iron. It is necessary when 
soldering with the iron to remove many parts in order 
to reach the joint to be soldered. These joints are 
accessible with the torch. This accounts for much of its 
popularity. 

It is the purpose of this chapter to give the work¬ 
man some hints and the beginner the knowledge and 


72 


The Soldering Iron 


extent of equipment, its care and use. The soldering 
iron is not an iron but a copper bar with handle of steel 
and wood. For average radiator work the shop should 
be equipped with a pair of three pound irons, for gen¬ 
eral work; a pair of one and one-half pound irons for 
small work; and a pair of honey'Comb cell irons for work 
inside the air cells. A hatchet iron or other special 
shapes come handy for some jobs. 

In preparing these irons for use the three pound 
pair should be heated to a redness and hammered to 
a point tapering back about one-fourtli the length of 
the copper. When the iron is being redressed see that 
all the old tinning is burned or filed off before ham¬ 
mering. If this solder is hammered into the iron it will 
make it hard and unfit for proper tinning. The iron is 
annealed after hammering by heating the copper red 
and plunging into cold water. This not only softens the 
copper for filing, but enables it to take tinning well and 
makes it give off heat better. 


After hammering to shape all depressions are filed 
from the pointed end. Finishing down is done with a 
fine file effecting a flat smooth surface for the tinning. 
The better the iron is polished the longer the tinning 
will last. 

After the iron is filed it is heated to a point that 
will just melt solder readily. This is the proper heat 
for tinning. Too hot an iron does not take tinning well 
or hold it long. The iron is tinned b}^ rubbing each 
surface on a block of sal ammoniac applying solder to 


the iron at the same time. 

The one and one-lialf pound pair should be treated 
the same, only that the points should be drawn out longer 
and one hooked at the very point in about a three-eighths 
inch circle. The cell irons should be pointed only enough 
to enter the honey comb cells, being soldered at the 
time. 


The Soldering Iron 


73 


In using the iron it is necessary to clean the tinned 
point each time it is removed from the heater. The 
oxidation of the solder and the residue from the flux, 
picked up by previous soldering, coats the tinned sur¬ 
face of the point. This cleaning can be accomplished 
by dipping the point in a solution of sal ammoniac and 
water or in a solution of liquid flux and water. This 
dipping will cause the copper to pit just back of the 
tinning. If a clean white rag, kept soaked with water, 
is used to wipe the iron on when it is drawn from the 
fire, these pits will be prevented. 

In order to give the workman an idea of the method 
of repair with the soldering iron, a number of jobs on 
different portions of the radiator will he discussed. The 
most important part of any repair made with the solder¬ 
ing iron is that the joint be perfectly cleaned. The con¬ 
tacting surfaces as well as the outer surface for iron 
contact should be tinned if possible. 

Since the common paint burning blow torch is used 
by most all shops it will be included in this section. 
It is useful to remove parts and to preheat heavy parts 
for soldering with the iron. It is not absolutely neces- 
sary that a torch be used at all even in removing parts. 
In order that a part may be removed with the iron it 
is necessary that the outer surface about the joint to 
be parted, be tinned. This is done in order that the heat 
from the iron may be conducted to the metal from the 
iron. If the surface is not cleaned and tinned the dirt 
and oxide on the metal acts as an insulator. The heat 
from the soldering iron is not conducted readily, making 
it very difficult to melt the solder. 

For instance, in removing an overflow tube, the 
tank at one side of the tube is cleaned and tinned. The 
hot iron heats the tank and by conduction the solder 
about the tube is melted. If a hose connection is to 
be removed the outer surface is cleaned and tinned in 


74 


The Soldering Iron 


order to secure a close contact. The labor in this case 
is considerable but the operation is possible. 

17. Patching a Crack in Radiator Tank—Vibration 
or other cause frequently cracks the metal of which 
the radiator is constructed. Solder webbed over such 
a crack will not make a satisfactory repair. It is always 
necessary to patch these leaks. If the metal has been 
cracked by the strain, solder alone should not be de¬ 
pended upon to make the repair. 


The surface of tank should be scraped clean about 
the crack with scraper or wire brush. This cleaning 
should extend an inch if possible beyond the ends of 
the crack and at least one-half inch along each side. 
The V-shaped scraper should be used to clean the ragged 
edges down in the crack. Flux is then applied and the 
cleaned surface tinned. It is well to wipe the tinned 
surface with a clean rag while the solder is still molten. 


A patch is cut to cover the crack. It should be one 
and one-half inches longer than the crack and wide 
enough to extend one-lialf inch each side. Soft brass 
should be used for patch work. The gauge should be 
as heavy, or better, a little heavier than the tank. The 
patch should be cut so that the grain of the brass will 
cross the crack when patch is in place. Brass is grained 
lengthwise of the original sheet. This patch is then 
tinned and stroke cleaned with a clean rag while hot. 
It is then fitted to the portion of the tank where the 
crack occurs. This fit should be as perfect as possible. 
Square bends should be avoided and the patch should 
lay tight without the necessity of springing into place 
while soldering. Bounded corners on a patch are the 
mark of a careful mechanic. 


When a perfect fit is made, flux should be applied 
to each side of the patch and to the tinned portion of 
the tank. The patch is laid in place with the radiator 


The Soldering Iron 


75 


in such position that the patch is level. The hot solder¬ 
ing iron with a small hit of solder is laid on the patch 
with as much of the tinned portion of the iron in contact 
with it as possible. The idea is to heat the patch and 
not to poke the solder under it. If the metal is hot 
the solder when applied will flow, filling the entire 
space between the patch and tank. The patch is held 
in place as the iron is moved about over it and only 
enough solder is applied to fill in between the two pieces 
of metal. 

It is not necessary to touch the tank with the solder- 
ing iron. The patch should be held in place steadily with 
screw driver or other tool while the solder is freezing. 
If it is not held quietly until the solder sets the joint 
will be ruined. After the solder is cool any surplus lumps 
about the edges are smoothed off by a wiping motion 
of a real hot iron. 

18. Resoldering a Seam— Radiator tanks are fre¬ 
quently made of pieces, lap seamed at bends. The seam, 
to be soldered well, should be cleaned inside. This is 
not so difficult as might appear. With wire brush, see 
Fig. 31, the dirt is removed from the surface along the 
seam. Flux is applied to the outer portion of the lap. 
A well heated iron is laid on this lap with a little solder 
applied to get a good contact for the heat. A piece of 
rusty sheet metal is then inserted in the joint and slipped 
along as the solder is melted by the hot iron. This 
resembles the process described in connection with Fig. 
107. When the joint is loosened well beyond the ends 
of the leak the two edges of the metal are pried apart 
to expose the contacting surfaces. With Y-shaped or 
pointed scraper, these inside surfaces are cleaned. After 
cleaning at least one surface should be tinned. This can 
be done by holding the iron on outside surface and ap¬ 
plying flux and solder to the inside with the seam in 


76 


The Soldering Iron 



The Soldering Iron Held Flat on the Seam 


a nearly vertical position. Flux is applied to the inside 
of the seam before it is closed hack to original position. 
The iron is then used to run a water tight seam, see 
Fig. 51 showing correct position of the iron on a seam. 


19. Resoldering a Fitting— Quite frequently leaks 
occur where the solder filling about the hose connection 
is broken. The painter’s blow torch can be used to re¬ 
move the casting and the soldering iron for resolder¬ 
ing it. 


If there is only a small leak the outer surface should 

«/ 

be cleaned with scraper or wire brush. This surface 
should be tinned so far as this cleaning makes it possible. 
The casting and tank should be cleaned in the joint as 
far as the Y-shaped scraper will reach, and the surface 
retinned. This should be continued until all the surface 
























The Soldering Iron 


77 


is well tinned. Solder is then webbed over the joint. 
The repair will probably hold if the casting is well 
soldered at all other places. 

20. Resoldering a Tube Into the Header—When the 
leak is located, place the radiator upside down if leak 
is at the top header or right side up if at bottom. The 
fins should be pried away from the header so that the 
small pointed soldering iron can be inserted around the 
tube. With the Y-shaped end of the cell scraper clean 
the header and joint about the tube. A plain and hooked 
scraper may be used to clean the tube for a distance 
of about one-fourth of an inch from the joint. See that 
the seam in the tube is scraped out clean. A little acid 
soaked in and washed out before scraping will aid. 
Apply flux and tin the joint with a hot iron. If the 
tinning takes well down into the joint the soldering may 
be completed, if not continue the cleaning until it does. 

21. Repairing Leak Around a Stud—Radiators 

which have stud bosses or nuts inside the bottom tank 

as in Fig. 52 have been a source of much trouble to the 

repair man. The weave of the frame or the thrust of 

the tie rod and engine hood loosens the solder between 

the nut and the inside of the tank. It is an expensive 

job to remove the bottom tank in order to reset these 

bosses. There is a very economical wav to overcome 

«/ * 

the leak. 


With the old studs as a pattern new ones are pro¬ 
cured from a machinist. These are turned from a piece 
of shafting one inch or one and one-fourth inch in 
diameter. A washer or flange is left full size of the 
shafting near the lower end of the threads which screw 
into the boss inside the tank. This flange is tinned. If 
the bottom is cracked a heavy patch of tinned brass is 
placed on the tinned tank with a hole corresponding 
to the hole for the stud in the tank. Flux is applied 



78 


The Soldering Iron 



to all the contacting surfaces previously tinned and the 
stud screwed tight in the boss. The flange should draw 
the boss tight inside the tank. The blow torch is then 
applied to the bottom of tank and stud, until the tinned 
surface is hot enough to melt solder. The solder is then 
sweated in with a good hot iron. 

There are a few cars fitted with this type of radiator 
that can not be repaired in this fashion. The crank 
seat from the motor extends thru a hole in the bottom 
tank and it is necessary to have the studs removed 
from the radiator in order that it can be slipped back 
on the frame cross member with the shaft projecting 
thru the hole. In this case the tank must be removed 
from the core and the repair made from the inside. 

22. Cutting a Tube Out of the Circulation— Occa¬ 
sionally it is found necessary to block off a tube so that 
the water will be excluded from passage. This is not 
good practice but is more economical when repair bill 
is concerned. This work should be done neatly so that 
the appearance of the radiator is not marred. 



































The Soldering Iron 


79 


Out an oval piece from the side of the tube about one- 
fourth inch from each tank. Scrape the inside of the tube 
clean. If the seam is not cut, care must be taken to scrape 
deep enough in it that a good solder joint is obtained. 
Raw muriatic acid may be used to assist in the cleaning. 
If it is used it should be washed out well. Flux is ap¬ 
plied to the inside of the tube. With the small pointed 
iron, block the ends of the tube next to the tanks. If 
no leak is found by testing, an iron just hot enough to 
melt the solder is used to fill the hole nicely to corres- 
pond to the shape of the tube. When the fins are 
straightened back and the tube is painted it is very dif¬ 
ficult to detect the repair. 

23. Repairing Tubes Broken by Freezing—The sol¬ 
dering iron is a very effective tool with which to solder 



Fig. 53 

Typical Freeze in Seamless Tube 

leaks in a radiator having seamless tubes. In Fig. 53 
the fins have been cut and bent back to show the typical 
leak in this style tube. It is not usually necessary that 
the fins be cut at all to effect this repair. It can be done 
with a long pointed iron after the fins are pried apart 
with screw driver as in Fig. 54. It is true that in some 
cases it is necessary to remove the fins. In soldering 
















80 


The Soldering Iron 


these leaks in seamless tubes the edges 
should be pressed back in place carefull 


of the crack 
y so that the 



Fig. 54 

Prying Fins Apart to Repair Small Leaks 


diameter of the tube is not changed. After cleaning 
solder is built over the crack. The fins are straightened 
and painted. 

In the seamed tube core, the tubes open at the seams 
upon freezing. The repair is not difficult if there are 
only one or two tubes leaking and the seams are easily 
seen. The fins may be cut along the tube by using a 



Fig. 55 

Narrow False Fin 


pair of sharp pointed snips. The ends of the fins are 
bent back as in Fig. 53. The seam is cleaned with acid 
and a scraper. This tube should be closed to as near 
the original diameter as possible after which the iron 
is used to solder the seam. After the radiator is tested 
and joint is found to be water tight the fins are straight¬ 
ened back into place and repaired by clamping over each 








The Soldering Iron 


81 



Fig. 56 

Pricking Plier 


projecting fin edge a fold of light brass or copper, as 


in Fig. 55. These folds are made from one-fourth inch 
metal ribbon cut in two and one-half inch lengths and 
folded lengthwise at the center. It is not necessary that 
they be soldered on. A pair of pliers with a small tooth 
in one jaw that enters a hole opposite in the other jaw, 
Fig. 56, may be used to perforate the fold and enclosed 
fin at each end of the repair. When the core is painted 
the work can not be detected easily. 


There are however usually a number of frozen 
tubes. If these are not scattered over the core but 
bunched as in Fig. 57, the fins may be removed and 
the repair made. If it is necessary to remove a great 
many fins the job will be too expensive to do with the 
iron. Tearing out fins reduces the radiation of a core. 
It is not advisable to ruin the radiator in order that it 
may be made to hold water. The radiator must hold 
water in order that it may cool the engine, but a radiator 
mutilated so that it will not furnish the proper amount 
of radiation for the cooling of the engine is no better 
than one that fails to hold the water. 


The fins should be removed carefully and by a strict 
system in order that the false fins may be placed to hide 
the amputation as cheaply as possible. The fins are 
always cut over the center of the tube. After determin¬ 
ing the section to be cut out, clean the projecting edges 




82 


The Soldering Iron 





Fig. 57 

Lock Seam Tubes Opened by Freezing 


of the fins where they are to end after the hole is torn. 
In removing the fins as shown by this figure, each fin 
was cut in six places. The first cut was made over the 
row of tubes to one side of the frozen tubes, each fin 
was cut over each tube to the other end of the hole 
ending on the first good tube. This hole is to expose 
the two front tubes in four rows. The needle nose pliers 
are used to pull the fins. They are inserted straddling 
a fin to the depth of the desired hole along a row of 
tubes. The pliers are pried and twisted slightly to 
break the fin between the tubes in the row. The pliers 
are then slipped over against the adjacent row of tubes 
straddle the same fin. Bv twisting awav from the tubes 
the fin is torn loose. Continue until the desired hole 
is torn. If the pliers are inserted too deeply the fin will 
be torn on the opposite face. The pliers should be 
twisted away from the tubes in order to avoid flattening 
them. The fins should be torn out well above and below 
the leak. 

The leaks are repaired as stated before. In case 

the leak is on the back of the tube it will be necessarv 

«/ 







The Soldering Iron 


83 


to use a small mirror, Fig. 58, to see the condition at 
this point. A hooked shaped scraper and the one and 



one-lialf pound iron with hooked end is necessary to 
clean and solder the seam. 

The dry or water pressure method is very practical 
in trying ont the radiator when the soldering iron is 
used as a soldering tool. The flux should be wiped off 
before testing. For air pressure to be applied, a bicycle 
pump is sufficient. When the radiator is filled with 
water the hose from the pump is placed over the over¬ 
flow tube and the pressure held by placing the palm 
of the hand over the filler neck. A small flashlight, 



Fig. 59 

Electric Flash Light 


Fig. 59, inserted back in the torn ont section is handy 
in locating any small leaks. 

Before the last test the two center tubes in the cut¬ 
out section, Fig. 57, should be tinned along the front 
so that the false fins may be soldered to them. 







84 


The Soldering Iron 



Fig. 60 

False Fin for Tubular Core 


When the leaks are all stopped false fins should 
be soldered in place. These false fins are made either 
of roofing tin or brass. The tin fins if painted are good 
enough. They will rust very little unless the radiator 
leaks. In this case they will probably have to be re¬ 



moved to repair the leak and new ones can be installed 
as cheaply as the old ones can be put back. Fig. 60 
is exact size of fin used on the Ford and many others. 



Fig. 62 

Second Cut on False Fin 


The fins are prepared for filling the hole in Fig. 57, by- 
cutting the fin along lines a-a in Fig. 61. This allows 
the fin to lap about one-fourth inch over the ends of 
the original fins. The second cut is made as B. B. in 
Fig. 62. This is done in order that a smooth joint may¬ 
be made when the fold on the false fin is straddled 



The Soldering Iron 


85 


over tlie fins on tlie radiator. A sharp bladed scraper 
is inserted in the fold at each end of false fin after the 
cut B. B. is made. The folded edge of the false fin is 
placed down and the fold straddled over the ends of the 
original fin. This fold is pinched flat and while hold¬ 
ing the false fin back against the tubes it is tacked to 
the two center tubes which have been tinned. The ends 
of the fins are soldered with a sliding motion of the 
soldering iron. This wipes the surplus solder out along 
the fin and does not leave a lump where the joint is 
made. When the false fins are all in place the core 
should be painted. 


When only a short length of fin is used it is not 
necessary to tack it to the tubes. When longer strips 
are used it is necessarv to tack with solder to about 
every third tube. These tubes are selected and tinned 
before the fins are put in place. When the hole ex¬ 
tends to the edge of the core, the fin is cut square at 
the end to correspond with the original fins and tacked 
to the last tube at the outer end, and to the fin at the 
other. 


24. Resoldering Face Seam in Honey Comb Core— 

The leaks resulting from poorly soldered water tube 
seams in the face of the honey comb core can be repaired 
satisfactorily with the iron. Careful cleaning must be 
done preparatory to the soldering with the iron, that 
a good jol) may be accomplished. This leak is discussed 
in chapter on The Torch in connection with Figs. 103 
and 104. It will be of advantage to the repair man using 
the iron to read this method. Some pointers may be 
gained. 


These leaks usually occur where the laterals (cross¬ 
wise) fins meet the water tube. The outside of the water 
tube and these extending laterals where the leak occurs 
should be cleaned and tinned. With the point of the 





86 


The Soldering Iron 


small iron in the cell against the water tube the seam 
may be opened b} r using a sharp pointed scratcher or 
awl. The opening should be extended until a good solder 
joint is found. With these edges pried apart they should 
be scraped bright and tinned. This work must be done 
carefully as the ribbon of metal is very thin. The opened 
seam is closed after cleaning and tinning as in Fig. 105. 
Flux is then applied and the seam filled with solder. 
The solder will usually bubble in this seam. If it does 
the iron is held on the face of the seam until the mois¬ 
ture is dried out and the bubbling cases. The solder 
will be seen to flow down into the seam. It is well to 
web solder oyer the corners where water tubes and lat¬ 
erals meet. This operation is slow, but effective. 

25. Repairing a Puncture in Tube Wall—If a leak 
is found back in the air cell whether it be from a crack 
or puncture it will be necessary that a cell iron, Fig. 63, 


Fig. 63 

Soldering Iron 

be used. Since it is difficult to tin the metal after clean¬ 
ing with acid it is more practical to use a small wire 
scraper, Fig. 64, for cleaning about the leak. The ra¬ 
diator should be propped upon the bench so that solder 
will flow over the leak. The small flashlight, Fig. 59, 
held at the back of the core will be useful if electric 
lights are not available. When the metal is clean flux 

may be applied with round swab or a small rag twisted 
on a wire. 

The cell iron is necessarily very small and should 
be used rapidly or it will freeze fast in the cell. In case 
this happens it can be removed by applying the blow 
torch to the projecting portion of the iron about one inch 


Cell 



The Soldering Iron 


87 


from the core. The flame should be held parallel with 
the face of the core to avoid melting the solder on the 
face. It is convenient to hold the torch in this position 
to heat the iron. By drawing the iron outward to heat, 
the work can be rapidly done. 


Fig. 64 

Wire Cell Scraper 

A drop of solder is placed in the cell near the leak 
and the hot cell iron pushed against it to tin the metal. 
The iron is withdrawn reheated and inserted again. Sol¬ 
der is added as needed to build over the leak. Wire solder 
may be inserted against the point of the iron from the 
back of the cell or pellets previously prepared may be 
used. This work is not at all difficult if ordinary care is 
exercised. 

26. Resoldering the Header Strip to Honey Comb 
Core— When a leak occurs at the joint between the tank 
and the header of the honey comb core the lime deposit 
and paint should be removed with a scraper, or better 
a wire brush. The surface of the tank should be clean 
enough to tin. Flux is then applied and the radiator 
slanted on the bench so that the solder will run from 
the seam. A hot iron with a little solder is applied and 
the surplus solder run from about the leaking joint. The 
tank and core are then separated in order that the con¬ 
tact may be cleaned and tinned. This may be done bv 
pressing the tank inward to expose the header, and later 
by pulling the break on the tank outward to tin the 
surface which bears upon the core. In some cases the 
break on the tank extends outward and may be bent 
awav from the core to admit the sharp pointed scraper. 
A stiff swab or brush with muriatic acid will assist 






88 


The Soldering Iron 


greatly in the cleaning. If the joint cannot be parted 
for tinning each surface separately, it should be pried 
apart sufficient for cleaning and soldered open in that 
position. If the parts can be tinned success!idly the tank 
should be restored to its original position and sweat sol¬ 
dered. The iron being applied to the tank and the solder¬ 
ing accomplished by the conduction of the heat thru the 
solder to the core. 


27. Removing and Replacing the Bottom Tank 
Header, Ford Radiator—The assertion that the repair 
of radiators can be and is being accomplished by the 
soldering iron method may be illustrated by comparing 
the two on one single job. The description of this job 
will be found in Chapter 8, under same heading. 

As stated, the painter’s common blow torch is in¬ 
cluded in the equipment of almost all tin shops or 
garages. If it is not, no repair man doing any small 
amount of radiator work can well be without one. Its 
cost can be earned very shortly by the time saved. Gas- 
oline for fuel is procurable everywhere. A good torch 
should be purchased and the manufacturers’ directions 
carefully observed. This is mentioned because of the 
fact that blow torches today are being made to burn the 
automobile gasoline and are operated slightly different 
from the old ones. Years ago gasoline was made for 
stoves. Today it is made for motors. A good torch will 
operate on this gas if one is purchased and directions 
are followed. 


The repair man using the soldering iron will use 
a blow torch to remove the bottom tank and header as 
referred to in Chapter 8. The surplus solder is removed 
from the tube ends with the same torch. It will be best 
to turn the flame low to do this. 

The tube ends are then cleaned with acid as in the 
torch method. After thorough washing, the tube ends 



The Soldering Iron 


89 



Fig. 65 

Tube Bucker 


should be cleaned with a wire brush. Flux is applied 
and a drop of solder on the point of the iron is applied 
to the tube. By moving the iron around the tube it is 
tinned. After careful tinning the radiator is stood bot¬ 
tom up and the tubes heated with the blow torch to run 
any surplus solder down. The tube bucker, Fig. 65, is 
used to cup the ends of the tubes so that the header 
will slip on easily. This bucker is made by drilling a 
17/64 inch hole one-fourth inch deep in the end of a 
five-eighths inch rod. The tapered end of this hole will 
cup the end of the tube when the bucker is placed over 
it and struck a light blow with the hammer. The tubes 
should be lined up so they will meet the holes in the 
header. The header is slipped on the tubes in position 
one and seven-eighths inches from the cross bar. The 
header is then wet with flux and the tubes soldered. 

' By placing the iron against one side of the protruding 
tube and applying wire solder to the other side a good 
joint can be run. The remainder of the operation is 
very simple. The joints on the bottom tank should be 
tinned before it is put in place. 


The time consumed by the use of the soldering iron 
will be little different from that required by the torch 
method. It is all a matter of good soldering. The most 
prevalent mistake of the mechanic using the iron is the 
omission of tinning the joint before assembling the part. 
It will be stated again “always tin,” and to tin a part 
it is necessary that it be “properly cleaned.” 



















90 


The Soldering Iron 


Beginners at repairing will attempt to make a repair 
without removing a part, while less time would have 
been required in removing, cleaning tinning and re¬ 
setting. After learning that a radiator can be taken to 
pieces they have a mania for tearing them up. Many 
at first do a great deal of unnecessary work when they 
get to this state of learning. Judgment, it seems, can 
only be the result of experience. No amount of advice 
will enable a man to know just when a part should be 
removed and replaced and when a good repair can be 
accomplished with all parts in place. 


28. Soldering Gasoline Tanks—The reputation of an 
expert solderer is always gained by the successful ra¬ 
diator repair man. A variety of repair jobs will be 
brought in the shop. The repair of gasoline tanks for 
cars are much a part of the radiator man’s business. 
The repair of these tanks is a soldering iron job. It is 
true that the torch may be used but the danger of an 
explosion, possibly not serious to the workman, but 
damaging to the tank, makes it inadvisable. The sol¬ 
dering iron is safe and fast enough if skillfully used. 


If there are leaks about fittings they should be re¬ 
moved, the joint tinned, the casting bolted in place and 
resoldered the same as is advised concerning radiator 
fittings. 


Testing is accomplished by the wet or air pressure 
method used on radiators. Some tanks will stand con¬ 
siderable pressure. Others should be carefully handled. 
If the ends are flat three to four pounds should not be 
exceeded. If air pressure is not available by any other 
means a bicycle pump will supply the need. A little 
gasoline in the tank run about the seams will show moist 
on the outside where leaking. 




CHAPTER 8 

THE TORCH 

T HE rapidity with which repair work can be ac¬ 
complished with the torch over the soldering iron 
gives it first place as a soldering tool. For this 
reason serious consideration should be given the selec¬ 
tion of a torch. 

Some of the requirements of a proper torch are: 
long slim needle like flame capable of reaching out of 
way places, a flame that will burn in a corner or cavity 
without scattering or going out, a flame that will not 
be extinguished by the fumes of the flux and acid, an ad¬ 
justable flame suitable for working among the fins and in 
the cell of the honey comb as well as for heavier work of 
disassembling, a flame giving sufficient heat to accom¬ 
plish the soldering quickly yet not hot enough to destroy 
the metal being soldered. 

There are several gases available for the production 
of this flame. In fact there is no locality so lacking 
in facilities that a satisfactory torch can not be operated. 
Any of the types of torch adaptable to this work require 
a supply of air or other gas under pressure to support 
the combustion of the inflammable gas used. Some 
torches require more air pressure than others. The re¬ 
quired pressure ranges from two to about ten or twelve 
pounds. 

Natural gas varies so much in different gas fields, 
little effort has been made to manufacture a torch to 
burn this <ras. It is necessary that the torch be modeled 
for the inflammable properties of the gas in each certain 
locality. Unless one understands these requirements it 
is difficult to construct such a torch. 

Citv or artificial gas is more uniform. Concentrated 
flame torches burn this gas successfully. The flame can 










09 


The Torch 


be adjusted from a pointed flame as in Fig. 66 to a 
brush flame in Fig. 67. The degree of heat is about the 
same as produced by a blue gasoline flame. 



Fig. 66 

Needle Flame Produced by City Gas and Air 





Fig. 69 

Brush Flame Produced by Acetylene and Air 


Acetylene is used with air or oxygen to support com¬ 
bustion. The acetylene and air torch produces a satis¬ 
factory flame. The needle flame is illustrated in Fig. 68. 













































































































The Torch 


93 


Its length can be varied to suit conditions. The brush 
flame is shown by Fig. 69. Work in the cell of a honey 



Fig. 70 

Needle Flame Produced by Gasoline with Air 



Fig. 71 

Brush Flame Produced by Gasoline with Air 


comb core is accomplished with difficulty, because of its 
intense heat at the base of the flame and its tendency 
to spread when introduced into the cell. 

The acetylene and oxygen torch is not well adapted 
to radiator work. The flame is extremely hot and is not 
adjustable for the scope of work. In shape the flame 
is about the same as Fig. 69. This can be varied in 
size but is too brushy for small places. 

Hydro o*en with air under pressure to support com- 
bustion produces a flame very similar to the city gas 
torch. The needle flame can be adjusted to a sufficient 
degree to make the torch adaptable to almost any ra¬ 
diator work. Where hydrogen is procurable it makes a 
very satisfactory flame. 







































94 


The Torch 


The gasoline torch, operated with air under pres¬ 
sure passed through gasoline, has a wide range of ad¬ 
justment. The needle flame illustrated in Fig. 70 can 
be produced in lengths, varying from one to four inches. 
It is also capable of wide variance in the brush flame 
illustrated in Fig. 71. 


The gas for this torch is produced by a generator 
that requires no heat. The air used to support the 
combustion is forced thru the generator where sufficient 
gasoline is evaporated to produce the desired flame. This 
torch has been used by dentists and jewelers for a 
number of years. Expense of operation is very small. 


The wide range of adjustment makes this torch 
particularly adaptable to honey comb work. Inside 
leaks can be soldered without damaging the face seams. 
Two opposite leaks in the same air cell can be repaired 
successfully when proper adjustment of the flame is 
made. 


The torch in radiator repairing is a left hand tool. 
The flame is held still on the joint while the right hand 
is free to perform the rest of the operation. The torch 
should be held at such an angle that the flame will strike 
the metal at right angles in order to get the most heat. 
In running a seam with a torch, solder with or rather 
in the direction of the flame. In Fig. 77 the tubes are 
soldered beginning at the left, and the rest of row in 
order. The reason for this is that the flame preheats 
the metal to be soldered and allows the soldered part 
of the joint to cool undisturbed. 

In the following paragraphs a number of special 
repair jobs will be explained. This should give the be¬ 
ginner an idea of methods of repairing the different 
types of leaks in radiators. It is not the intent to give 
the reader the idea that these are the only methods nor 
that these are the only leaks the radiator is heir to, but 





The Torch 


95 


these examples will merely form a foundation for the ex¬ 
perience that is coming to anyone who takes up radiator 
repairing. If the workman can not apply former ex¬ 
perience to present problms, he will never make a re¬ 
pair man. While these suggestions are made with the 
torch in mind, much of this information is useful when 
the iron is used. 

29. Removing and Replacing Overflow Tubes— If 

the overflow leaks at the joint where soldered in tank, 
the best method of repair is to remove the tube, that 
the joint may be well cleaned. To remove, apply the 
needle pointed flame to the tube near the tank, reach¬ 
ing down thru filler neck push the tube outward. This 
will avoid breaking as would probably result from 
pulling on the outer end. After the tube has moved out 
past the tinned portion it can be extracted without 
further heat. After cleaning and tinning the tube and 
tank where the joint is made, insert the tube and 
resolder. It requires considerable care to resolder 
properly with the torch. If too much heat is ap¬ 
plied the solder will spread and flow away from the 
joint. Play the flame on joint and apply flux. Touch 

the tube with solder and heat only until the solder runs 

«/ 

well. Remove torch quickly. The flame and solder 
should be applied to the tube, the solder is then flowed 
down to the joint. Be sure the tank is heated sufficient¬ 
ly that the solder is flowed into the joint. It is this 
solder that makes the strength. Resolder the lower end 
of overflow securely to bottom tank and core channels, 
using clips over the tube where possible. 

30. Removing and Replacing Filler Neck on Ford 
Radiator— The filler necks in the 1917 and later models 
are peened on a collar to top of tank. To remove a 
damaged neck, heat at the center between bottom and 
top. When the brass is real hot, hit the hottest portion 
with the hammer. The brass made rotten by heating 










96 


The Torch 


will cave in. Continue to heat and break until only 
the bottom ring it left. Remove this by heating and 
breaking with pliers so that it can be peeled from collar. 
Brush all solder from collar on tank and retin the con¬ 
tacting portion. When the collar is cooled it can be bent 
up so that the new neck will slip over it. The collar can 
then be bent back down to hold the neck. Flux the joint 
well both inside and out. Hold flame on joint outside 
and apply wire solder inside flowing the joint well. 

In case the collar on tank is broken off or tank 
cracked about this joint a neck with flat outward flange 



Fig. 72 

Filler Neck with Outer Flange 

as illustrated by Fig. 72 can be used to advantage. The 
regular Ford shell should be slipped over the loose neck 
and radiator as a guide for proper placing. When the 
shell is in proper place the neck is soldered fast by direct¬ 
ing torch flame on the joint inside the neck. 

This method of placing the neck can be used to ad¬ 
vantage on any radiator such as Buick, Overland or 
others that have similar filler neck trouble. 

21. Removing and Replacing Tank Support on Ford 
Radiator—A ery often leaks occur underneath the tank 
support on the Ford radiator. The later models of 
radiator have spot welded joints where the support is 
attached to bar. These can be broken with chisel by 
driving it between the two. Should this joint be sol¬ 
dered, melt the solder with torch and insert a piece of 
black iron between them, to separate the joint without 




The Torch 


97 


springing the support. The end of rivet should be sawed 
off outside the support. Heat the support where it is 
soldered to tank. Turn it sideways on rivet. Do not 
pry as the hot tank will be easily broken by the rivet 
head. Run all the surplus solder off. Keep the support 
moving after removing the flame so the solder will not 
set. When parts are cooled, it can be slipped off the 
rivet. It should not be replaced until all leaks that were 
underneath it are repaired. The best plan is to continue 
with repair of the entire radiator and replace the tank 
support just before the final test. 

After the leaks are repaired, heat the rivet remain¬ 
ing in bottom tank and tapping lightly, allow it to fall 
back in tank. Clean and tin bottom of tank at end 
also the end of bar where the support solders. The old 
support can be used if it is not broken. It must be re¬ 
tinned. New supports are so cheap it is more expensive 
to use old supports than to use new ones. A small piece 
of tinned brass should be soldered over the rivet hole in 
tank bottom. See that the tank support fits so that it 
rests on the bar also flatly on bottom tank back squarely 
against the end of tank. 

This support should fit well at all points. The dura¬ 
bility of the whole job depends on keeping the radiator 
where it belongs. When this fit is attained, flux the con¬ 
tacting surfaces, place the support in position and “ sweat 
solder” the joints. 

32. Support of Overland Four— On the Overland 
Four radiator, the support consists of a channel iron 
fitting the bottom of the tank and extending step shaped 
at each end to bolt on chassis. Quite frequently the 
solder holding this support becomes broken. Replacing 
this is good practice in “sweat soldering.” Remove the 
support from tank, clean and retin it, also bottom of tank. 







98 


The Torch 


The best method of retinning the support is accom¬ 
plished as follows: Remove all the rough solder with 
torch. Scrape the surface with scraper or wire brush 
to remove all the scale possible. Heat the support and 
plunge into acid. Allow it to remain in the acid until 
it has a gray appearance, when it should be washed and 


retinned. The entire surface should be coated with 
solder to prevent rust after this pickling. The torch 
can be used to heat the part for tinning. A better method 
is to use the solder bath, Fig. 37, mentioned in Chapter 
5. While the support is still hot, place it in position on 
the bottom tank, having fluxed that part thoroughly. 
With only slight assistance of the torch the support can 
be sweat soldered firmly to bottom tank. This makes 
a repair that will resist all kinds of rough usage. 


33. Tie-Rod Bracket on Ford Radiator—The threads 
in tie-rod bracket, Fig. 73, become damaged and neces¬ 
sitate renewing the casting. This bracket is riveted with 



Fig. 73 

Tie Rod Bracket 


three rivets to top of top tank. Shear off these rivets with 
chisel and drive them back into top tank. With torch 
remove washer around the projecting portion of bracket. 
Heat the top of tank where the bracket was riveted. Al¬ 
low the old casting to fall back in tank to be removed thru 
the filler neck. See that the back of tank is well tinned 
where the washer rests. Also clean and tin inside of 
top tank where the old casting was riveted. This can 
be accomplished through the hole in back of tank. The 











The Torch 


99 



Fig. 74 

Replacing Tie Rod Bracket 


new casting should have a fresh coat of tinning. Solder 
brass nuts on the under side of the new bracket so that 
brass bolts can be inserted through the holes into the 
nuts. Solder a short length of wire or wire solder to 
the bracket as illustrated in Fig. 74. Thread the wire 
in through the filler neck and out the hole in back tank. 
Insert the brass bolts through the rivet holes in top tank 
and screw up firmly. Replace the washer and resolder 
the part securely. Notice there is a hole in the top tank 
for soldering the bolted portion of bracket. This method 
can be used to renew or replace parts on other radiators, 
gasoline tanks, etc. 

34. Capping Rivet in Tie-Rod Bracket— A frequent 
leak in Ford radiators is found about the rivet heads 
which fasten this tie-rod bracket. To repair, clean and 


































100 


The Torch 


tin about the leaking rivet. With a one-half inch hollow 
punch, make a cupped disc of tinned brass. Place tliis 
cap over the rivet head and solder. The vibration and 
strain is then taken by rivet and the cap prevents leak¬ 
ing. This typical repair can be used to advantage on gas¬ 
oline tanks where splashers are riveted through sides 
of tank and in many other places. 

35. Removing and Replacing Hose Connection—It is 

not advisable to attempt to clean and resolder a hose 





Fig. 75 

Removing Hose Connection 


connection that has been leaking for a considerable 
length of time without removing it. It can be removed, 
retinned and replaced in such a small space of time and 

i 

<. < 

< < < 


l c < 









The Torch 


101 



the strength of the joint is so much improved that it is 
usually advisable. The rivets are sheared off with the 
chisel flush with the surface of the casting. They are 
then driven back into the tank and shaken out thru 
the hose connection. The radiator is then placed on side 
so the solder will flow from the joint. The hose con¬ 
nection is heated and jarred with the hammer as 
in Fig. 75. The vibration prevents the solder from 
setting as the flame is moved around the joint. After 
the fitting has been removed the contacting surfaces 
should be tinned. 


In order to replace the casting properly it should 
be secured by brass bolts to the tank. The brass nuts 
where unable to reach by other means are solder tacked 
on narrow strips of galvanized iron. This is illustrated 
in Fig. 76. The galvanized iron strips are bent so the 


Bolting on a Hose Connection 


Fig. 76 















102 


The Torch 


nut can be held inside the tank under the hole in order 
that the brass bolts may be screwed into them. The 
strips can be pulled from the nuts easily or removed 
when the casting is being soldered. These bolts should 
be well heated in order that the solder will soak thru 
to the nut. 

36. Resoldering Tubes in Top Tank —Other than 
frozen tubes in the tubular cores, probably the most fre¬ 
quent leaks are found to be the broken joints where 
the tubes enter the tank or header. Especially typical 



Fig. 77 

The Flame Applied to Front of Tube 


of this is the Ford radiator 1917 and later. The five tubes 
in each outside row and the front tube in other rows 
across the top of the radiator. To repair these, remove 
the upper tank supports. With a screw driver pry the 
fin slightly away from the upper tank where leaks occur. 
Stand radiator on side so that old solder will run away 
from the joints when heated. With the torch and small 
v ire \ shaped scraper, remove all the solder possible. 
Stand the radiator neck down thru hole in bench and 
clean the joints with acid. A round acid swab like a 









The Torch 


103 


pistol cleaner can be used to advantage for this. This 
acid shonld be washed off with hose. If this cleaning 
has not removed all the lime deposit and dirt, apply acid 
a second time. Time spent cleaning will be repaid when 
the soldering operation is being done. 

To solder, begin with tubes across end at the left. 
Heat the joints and apply flux with brush or prefer¬ 
ably with flux squirter. Apply only a very little solder to 
tin the joint. While solder is molten, scratch around 
the joint with Y-shaped scraper until the solder flows 
down into the joint. Build solder around the tube 
slight]} r , see Fig. 77. To do this, hold the flame up on 
the tube about three-eighths of an inch above the joint. 
Apply solder to the tube and run it down to joint by 
moving flame downward. When the solder unites with 
the tank below, remove the torch quickly. Considerable 
practice will be required to get a good smooth joint. 
Flux must be applied frequently and the flame moved 
off at just the proper instant. The flux will serve to 
cool the joint suddenly when too much heat is applied. 

The tubes at the left are soldered first and others 
across the radiator in order. The flame being directed 
to the right preheats the tubes, and does not disturb the 
previously made solder joints. It is only necessary to 
direct the heat against the front half of the tube and 
the projection of the header. If the flame is moved to 
the back of the tube the joint of the second tube will 
be disturbed. Work in direction of flame. 

37. Replacing and Anchoring Top Tank Braces on 
Ford—It is well to know the cause of these frequent leaks 
at joint of tubes and top header. In the first place, the 
method of constructing the core, as has been explained, 
is by assembling the tubes, fins and headers with a 
washer of solder around every tube above each header. 
This core assembly is soldered by placing it in an oven 






104 


The Torch 



Fig. 78 

Resoldering Tubes in Top Header 


whose heat is regulated automatically at the melting 
point of solder. The end tubes and front tubes in each 
row are at a disadvantage since the break for ends and 
front allow only a small amount of solder to be assembled 
at these points. Therefore a weak joint results. 

In the second place, the top tank braces are not 
soldered rigidly to core as was the case in the first T7 
models, see Fig. 78. This model with short braces sol¬ 
dered to the fins at the back of core gives little trouble. 
The long braces of later models reaching down to the 
bar support are only tacked in the center. This solder 
breaks loose and the vibration of the side brace throws 
all the strain on the tubes. The result is that the tubes 
across the ends work loose, then the tubes across the 
front. A little more care in soldering these top tank 
braces will relieve the tubes of the strain and make the 
repair permanent. In preparing the side for replacing, 
clean and tin a strip down the inside of the brace where 
the fins meet it at the back near the top tank. The ends 
of the fins should also be cleaned. See that side fits 














The Torch 


105 



Fig. 79 

Top Tank Brace Anchored to the Fins 

closely at both ends and along the core. Resolder the 
ends, then with radiator on block as in Fig. 79 solder 
the fin ends securely to the brace for a distance of about 
six inches. 

This illustration of method with a little variance, 
applies to radiators other than Ford. The Oakland and 
Maxwell have similar trouble. The principle is to make 
the tank brace or core channel perform the function for 
which it is intended. However it does not apply to honey 
comb radiators. The core channel in this case should be 
rigid enough to hold with no soldering to core. 

38. Repairing Cracked Header on Ford, Maxwell, 
Oakland, Etc.—The header of the bottom tank frequent¬ 
ly cracks. The Ford will be used as an illustration. This 
crack is hard to detect. It occurs at the base of collar 
drawn around the holes in the header, Fig. 80, also fre¬ 
quently around the overflow tube hole. 



















































106 


The Torch 



Fig. 80 

Where Header Usually Cracks 


Place radiator on side and remove all the solder pos¬ 
sible with torch and scraper. With sharp point of 
scratcher examine the header for cracks. Some times 
these cracks extend between tubes particularly across 
the ends. If crack is found, a patch will be necessary. 
No amount of piled solder will hold very long. 

These patches should be made of brass not lighter 
than twenty-four gauge, twenty-two is better. Cut a 
piece % wide and long enough to reach one-half inch 
beyond the tubes at each end of leaking portion. Lay 


(nnnnQooo. 


Fig. 81 

Repair Strip for Cracked Header 


off and punch one-fourth inch holes on one inch centers 
back about one-sixteenth of an inch from one edge. 
See Fig. 81. With snips cut to slot these holes back 
as illustrated. Tin the patch on both sides also the 
header and tubes about the leaks. Insert patch and hold 
down with screw driver tacking with solder between each 











The Torch 


107 



Fig. 82 


Header Patch in Place 


row of tubes, see Fig. 82. A\ ith hammer, bend down the 
extending edge and sweat solder the patch resoldering 
tube joints as advised in “Resoldering Tubes m Top 
Tank. ” It is well to keep a stock of ready tinned patches 
to use in a hurry as this is primarily a hurry up job. 


39. Removing and Renewing Bottom Tank Header 

—It is much better to remove and replace with new 
header than to try to remedy the leak by patching. If 
the header is weak enough to crack, the same thing will 
occur at a different place. Frequently, however, a job 
must be gotten out in a certain length of time and the 
method that will produce the desired result in the least 
time possible should be used. 


The removal of the header necessitates the removal 
of the bottom tank. The tank supports should be re¬ 
moved as advised in paragraph on that subject. Loosen 
the overflow tube and bend away slightly. Stand ra¬ 
diator on side and apply flame to seams along the tank. 
Brush away the solder with whisk broom as it runs 
from seams. After removing this surplus solder, with 


hose connection projecting toward the right hand, apply 






























108 


The Torch 



Fig. 83 

Removing the Bottom Tank 


flame to seam at top end of tank. Move the torch around 
toward the hose connection. When this portion is hot 
enough to flow the solder, tap on projecting hose connec¬ 
tion with hammer as illustrated in Fig. 83. This vibra¬ 
tion should be continued until the solder is loosened down 
both sides. A little practice will make the workman 
very proficient in judging when the part is loose. The 
jar on the hose connection prevents the solder from re¬ 
setting to tank and header. When a point well down on 
each side is reached and the bottom begins to leave the 
header at the top, the hose connection should be seized 




The Torch 


109 



Fig. 84 

Driving Header From the Tubes 


with the pliers and by continuing the shaking movement 

the remainder of the tank can be removed easilv. 

•/ 

To remove the header, lay the radiator face down 
on bench with header projecting over edge. If a helper 
is not available, place torch on a box so the flame plays 
on the header at one end. A painter’s common blow 
torch is handy for this. Any brush flame torch however 
is satisfactory. Insert a screw driver downward between 
the first and second row of tubes. When the solder 
melts, drive the header off the tubes back past the 
torch. Slide the radiator sideways thus heating another 
section of the header, see Fig. 84. Continue this opera¬ 
tion until header has been removed. The work must 
necessarily be done rapidly as the end of tubes will be 
burned by high heat of the flame. 

After removing the header, stand radiator on side, 
melt and brush all the remaining solder from the tube 
ends. A small lead lined vat just large enough to take 

















110 


The Torch 


the end of core is handy to clean these tubes. Pour in 
enough acid to reach up to the fins. Allow the radiator 
to stand in this acid until tubes are clean. A quarter to 
one-half hour is usually sufficient. This depends on the 
strength of the acid. 

After cleaning stand the radiator on side with tubes 
projecting toward the workman. Beginning at the top, 
tin tire top side of tubes using the flux swab and wire 
solder, heating the tubes in succession in direction of the 
flame. When the top half of the tubes are tinned, turn 
the radiator over and repeat the process. When this is 
finished, the radiator is stood neck down on a box or 
rest arranged on bench. Heat the tubes so that the 
surplus solder runs down on the fin. With tube bucker, 
Fig. 65, cup the ends of the tubes so that header will 
slip on. See that tubes line up and are round. Place 
new header on tubes. Allow the tubes to be driven well 
thru the header. The proper position of the header is 
one and seven-eighths inches from the bar. See that 
it squares up well both ways, wipe well with flux and 
anchor by soldering an occasional tube. Begin at tubes 
to left working to right. It is not necessary to build 
the solder high about each tube, but just enough to seal 
the joint. Be careful not to heat the header too hot as 
the solder will flow thru. A good needle point flame 
is best for this work. 

When the soldering is done, wash the header and 
examine the work for imperfect joints, which can easily 
be seen in the bright solder. If none are found the tank 
may be replaced. 

Examine the hose connection and see that it is in 
good shape. Frequently it will be found best to renew 
this part, or at least, resolder the old one. Care should 
be taken to see that the upper side of this connection will 
solder when replaced. Retin edges of bottom tank and 


The Torch 


111 



Fig. 85 

Removing the Front Wall 


fit it in header. The soldering iron is particularly good 
to solder this, but the torch is as rapid. Flux joints well. 
Hold the torch so that the flame meets the metal 
squarely. Flow solder well into the joint. Be careful 
that the flame is not held long enough in one place to 
melt the solder about the tubes in header. 

40. Resetting Top Tank, Ford Radiator— Occasion¬ 
ally a T7 Ford radiator will be found in which most, 
if not all, the tubes in top tank header are loose. These 
radiators are not hard to identify. The top tank sup¬ 
ports are loose and the tank can be moved on the tubes 
by laying the radiator face down on bench and shaking 
the tank by holding the filler neck. In this case the best 
















112 


The Torch 



Fig. 86 

Removing the Top Tank 


repair is to remove the top tank from the core. It can 
be removed and replaced as quickly as the tubes can be 
cleaned and resoldered with only the removal of the 
front wall. In fact the repair man is only doing a half 
job who attempts to resolder the tubes without remov¬ 
ing the header, cleaning and tinning the joint and re¬ 
assembling the radiator. Resoldering the tubes in the 
top header with the removal of the front only, is some¬ 
times called “floating the head.” Some radiators can 
be “floated” quickly while others are hard to clean and 
require much time. The only practical method is to 
remove the header if resoldering is necessary. The time 
consumed is the same on each and every job. 







The Torch 


113 



Fig. 87 

Resoldering the Top Header 


The top tank braces are probably off this radiator 
if not remove them. To remove the front, run the solder 
as in removing the bottom. Stand radiator on side 
beginning at the top, heat the seam and using the screw 
driver, tap lightly against the edge, see Fig. 85. Keep 
the front wall vibrating as the torch is moved down 
toward the filler neck. When the top seam is loosened 
for some distance insert the screw driver blade care¬ 
fully between the tank and the front wall. With c\ 
twisting motion keep up the vibration. Don't pry. The 
front wall is probably brass and will break easily when 
hot. Vibration is all that is necessary. When the top 
seam is loosened, move torch to lower seam. Beginning 


at the top, run the solder down continuing the vibration 
bv twisting the screw driver between parts near the 
filler neck. When the front seam is loosened to a point 
near the lower end, the screw driver should be replaced 







114 


The Torch 


with the pliers that the front wall may be held and 
removed carefully to avoid allowing it to fall and break 
the edges. 


Hang the radiator on side of water tank as Fig. 86. 
Apply torch to the tubes projecting thru the header. 


At the same time, tap on bar with hammer, utilizing 
the vibration principle again. A helper comes in handy 
for this operation as two hammers can be used, altho 
one man can manipulate it very well. Considerable heat 
is necessary, but not enough to run the solder from 
seams about the back of tank. To avoid this wrap 
water soaked rags on the seams at back of tank. Vibra¬ 
tion will have a tendency to cause the radiator to slip 
out from the tank. This may cause the tubes to bind 
as they slip from the header. The core should be kept 
flat back against the tank. A box placed on the floor 
under the radiator will be of assistance in preventing 
the loosened side from dropping down far enough to 
bind the last rows of tubes as they are pulled from the 
holes. Rapid work is necessary in this case, so time con¬ 
sumed is very small. 


Prepare the tubes as in replacing bottom header. 
Place the top tank in acid vat after surplus solder is 
removed. Retin the header. Examine the hose connec¬ 
tion and replace if necessary, or if cracks occur in top 
tank patch on the inside. 

In replacing the tank, use top tank supports as a 
gauge for proper position. Anchor in place by soldering 
an occasional tube. Resolder the tubes as in Fig. 87, 
beginning at the left work back and to the right, one row 
at a time. It is convenient to bend the front brake on 
top header out during this operation. When the tubes 
are all soldered, see that no solder is piled out in this 
edge. If so, run it back to tubes. 


The Torch 


115 



Fig. 88 

Soldering Front in Top Tank 


To replace front wall, having tinned the contacting 
surfaces, insert the part back of break on header. The 
break on front wall over the top is set back to take the 
edge of top tank. This groove should be free from lumps 
of solder. See that top tank is not bent out of shape. 
By spanning across the top from front to back, the wall 
can be held in proper position. A piece of one-eiglitli inch 
strap iron bent square at each end just long enough to 
reach from back to front will hold the wall in position. 
Tack the wall to the tank with solder in several places. 
The lower seam can be held in position for soldering by 
using a piece of bar solder, butt-soldered to front wall 
as in Fig. 88, or a piece of one-quarter inch gas pipe bent 
and inserted thru filler neck or hose connection, to hold 
the wall out. When front is tacked well in place, run 
water tight seams. Replace the top tank braces and 
anchor securely to the core. 

41. Frozen Tubes— The most grevious job on any 
tubular radiator is the repair of frozen tubes. This job 
is however much more successfully accomplished with 


116 


The Torch 


the torch than with the soldering iron, particularly in 
case of seamed tubes. These frost broken tubes are 
easily detected, see Fig. 57, with fins torn out to expose 
these tubes. 

42. Soldering Frost Broken Tubes with Small Flame 
Torch—In case there are only a few of the tubes leaking, 
the radiator may be repaired by cleaning and repairing 
each frozen tube separately. The workman may see 
traces of “dope” or the owner may acknowledge he has 
used one of the thousand and one sure cures of leaking 
radiators. In this case it is better that the entire radiator 
be cleaned. Everyone who attempts to repair will have 
the misfortune to misjudge the extent of leaks. It is 
wise to expect the worst. 

Leaking frozen tubes may be repaired without re¬ 
moving or disturbing the fins. Test the radiator and 
mark the leaks. Use some method of marking that will 
tell the location of the leak. The match method sug¬ 
gested is good. Stand radiator on side. With round 
acid swab and raw acid scrub the opened seam until 
clean. The tubes are usually copper therefore it is advis¬ 
able to heat the tube to boil the acid as explained in clean¬ 
ing copper. If the seam in tube is in position to be 
seen, continue cleaning until the acid does not boil in 
seam when tube is cool. 

The seam should be closed back to as near original 
shape as possible. A tube-closer illustrated in Fig. 89 
will be necessary. This tool is ten inches long, made of 
one-eighth by one inch band iron such as is used to 
bind bundles of sheet iron. The hook on end is bent on 
three-eighths inch circle. If possible, place tool between 
fins on seam so that the outer lap of the seam will be 
drawn against the other. With hammer tap the tool on 
convenient shoulder or end as case may be at same time 
pulling or pushing on closing tool so that the seam will 


The Torch 


117 



Fig. 89 

A Tube Closing Tool 



Fig. 90 

Closing the Seams on Front of Tubes 


lie drawn together. In Figs. 90 and 91 the tube-closer 
is shown closing tubes, the fins having been removed 
to illustrate clearly. 

To solder, heat with a good strong concentrated 
flame. If the tube is well back, the air should be turned 
on strong enough to force the flame back between the 
fins to the tube. Move the flame along the tube to avoid 
over heating the fins. When tube is hot apply flux and 
solder to the seam. The flux may be applied with round 





















118 


The Torch 



Fig. 91 

Drawing Lap to Original Position 


acid swab, eye dropper, small oil can, or better a fountain 
fed flux squirter as Figs. 92 and 93. 

Tlie flux must not be allowed to dry before the 
solder is applied. It is best, not only to tin the leaking 
portion but a little beyond it at each end. If any part 
does not tin, repeat the cleaning until the tube and seam 
all take a good coat of tinning. Apply more flux and 
solder until seam is well soldered. Some times it will be 
found necessary to scratch along the seam with the small 
Y-shaped wire scraper. This works the solder down 
into the seam and along the seam under the fins. 

This method is slow and should be used only where 













The Torch 


119 



Fig. 92 

Fountain Fed Flux Squirter 


leaks are few. Two more rapid methods are available. 
Each however necessitate the cleaning of the entire 
radiator. One of these methods is described under the 
following heading, the other is explained in Chapter 10. 

43. Soldering Frost Broken Tubes with Flood Flame 
Torch—If upon careful examination the radiator is 
found to be badly frozen, it should be cleaned by boiling 
and acid bath, see Chapter 4. A larger brush flame is 
necessary for this work. The painter’s common blow 
torch is available to all, hence its use will be discussed. 
The flame produced by a new torch is not as long nor 
as bushy as is needed. A more efficient flame may be 
produced by enlarging the port. Only a slight enlarge¬ 
ment is necessary. It is best to enlarge the port slightly 
and try torch until a flame four or five inches long is 
produced. There should be no yellow, but as large a 
blue flame as possible. The idea is to heat a large sec¬ 
tion of the core rapidly but not too hot. Solder melts at 
about 370 degrees while the gasoline flame is capable 
of 2,500 degrees of heat. This torch should not be held 
too close and kept in constant motion while flame is in 
contact with the core. 

Good light is necessary to do this work as rapidly 
as it must be done. Very few shops have sufficient 
natural light especially in winter when frozen radiators 
are abundant. The light illustrated in Fig. 93 is es¬ 
pecially good. 







120 


The Torch 



Fig. 93 

Soldering Tubes with Flood Flame 


Since it is necessary to see all the tubes, the fins 
should be straightened before any attempt is made to 
solder. It is well to do the straightening before the clean¬ 
ing process. 

Stand radiator on side and examine for freeze line. 
It is not necessary to test the radiator as all the opened 
seams must be soldered. The seams visible with radiator 
in this position are soldered first. Begin at side down 
next to bench and work up. With torch in left hand, 
move flame across fins along the tubes applying flux 
at same time. Don't forget that flux is necessary. Use 
plenty. Don’t forget that the torch is hot and fins are 
thin. Keep the flame moving. Apply solder to outside 
tubes whether seams are in sight or not. If the opened 
seam is in the third tube, tin the first and second tubes 
before working back to the opened seam. The principle 
of tinning the soldering iron is involved here. Avoid 
burning the tinning from the outside rows of tubes while 



The Torch 


121 


working back to t-lie inner tubes. If the tinning is burned 
off considerable difficulty will be experienced in getting 
the tubes tinned again. Leaks will be bound to occur 
in the burned tubes as the solder is burned from the seam 
as well as from the surface of the tube. After the opened 
seam is reached and tinned, close and solder. If the 
cleaning has been thorough the solder will take as fast 
as these operations can be performed. After a few trials 
this work can be done very speedily. 


When all visible seams are soldered, turn radiator 
over end ways standing it on opposite side. Begin at the 
bottom and work up as before. Turn other side of core 
outward and repeat the soldering in the two positions 
across this side. 


This process is far more quickly accomplished than 
might be expected. This is especially true after the 
mechanic learns to perform each motion automatically. 
Have a certain place to lay every tool and return it to 
that place each time. 

When the core lias been gone over in these four 
positions, test for leaks. Mark leaks and solder as 
before. This is the time when there is the greatest danger 
of burning the fins as the radiator is wet, preventing 
the heat from radiating from the heated point. Heat a 


large portion slowly. Move torch continually. Avoid 

burning tinning from outer tubes, and do not expect to 

repair leaks by piling solder between the fins. Solder 

the leak. Give yourself time to learn. A little acid on 

a particularly difficult leak while tube is hot often does 

the trick. The majority of leaks found in testing are 

on back side of tubes. When such are found, examine 

each with small Y-shaped scraper to determine which 

wav the radiator should be stood to flow the solder into 
«/ 

seam, also to tell how to hold tube closer to make seam 
roll together. 


122 


The Torch 


When all leaks are repaired, straighten and repair 
damaged fins. The burned edges of the Jins may be 
repaired by using a one-eightli by one-eiglith inch fold, 
two to three inches long. These false fins must be of 
very thin material. They are pressed tightly on fin 
with fin tongs. It is not necessary to solder them. 
A small pair of pliers with prickling tooth will fasten 
them firmly. A coat of flat black paint will make the 
radiator look like new. 

The above described process applies to seamed 
copper tubes. If upon examination the tubes are found 
to be of brass it will be necessary to close the opened 
seam before the tube is heated. Otherwise the tube 
closer will cut the hot tube in two instead of closing the 
seam. 

41. Removing and Installing Tubes—In some in¬ 
stances it is advisable to remove a mutilated or broken 
tube rather than attempt to repair. Frequently the 
tubes are mashed or cut by collision or by a fan blade. 
Vibration also breaks the tubes near the tank. If the 
radiator is in good condition otherwise this method of 
repair is always best. Copper tubes are not made brittle 
by heat and can be removed easily. 

When only one or two tubes are damaged it is not 
necessary to remove a tank to replace the tubes. The 
tube is sawed thru at the center or at the mutilation, 
also near each tank as shown in Fig. 94. An old hack 
saw blade wrapped with tape at one end for a handle 
makes a very satisfactory saw for this work. 

Heat is then applied along the half section of the 
tube to melt the solder connecting it to the fins. As the 
pliers are twisted the tube flattens and is rolled between 
the fins. The remaining portion of the tube is removed 
in like manner. The stumps left in the headers are then 
removed, care being exercised to prevent melting the 


The Torch 


123 



Fig. 94 

Removing Tube by Rolling on Pliers 


solder from adjoining tubes. The fins are then straight¬ 
ened. A three-eighths inch hole is drilled in the bottom 
tank in line with the tube way. The hole in the header 
should be reamed with a 17/64 inch drill. In case of 
the Ford radiator the hole in the support bar should 
also be reamed out. Before inserting the new tube the 
end of tube should be cupped as descriped in “Remov¬ 
ing and Replacing the Bottom Tank Header, Ford Ra¬ 
diator,” in Chapter 7. When the tube is in place solder 
it in both headers. Before repairing the hole in the 
bottom tank see that the solder lias not run over the 
end of the new tube. The tube can be tested for opening 
in top tank by probing with a wire. 




















































124 


The Torch 



Fig. 95 

Removing Tube Through Hole in Bottom Tank 


It is very necessary that the tube he soldered to 
the fins as proper cooling depends on this connection. 
This is accomplished by placing the radiator in an up¬ 
right position on the bench and applying flux to the 
entire tube. The torch flame is held near the top, a drop 
of solder is placed on the tube and run down from fin 
to fin. If a number of tubes have been inserted the 
fins should be soldered to the tube in the center of the 
repair first. Space the fins properly with the pliers as 
the solder is run down. Inside tubes should be soldered 
before the outer ones are inserted. A coat of paint 
will hide the discolored fins and the radiator will be 
as good as new. 

It is possible to remove the tube in one piece after 
sawing at the ends and removing the stumps from the 

















































The Torch 


125 



Fig. 96 

The Tank Removed for Pulling a Number of Tubes 


headers as in Fig. 95. The torch is applied and the tube 
is driven toward the lower tank by holding the screw 
driver flat against the upper end tapping it with the 
hammer. This is continued by moving the screw driver 
down from fin to fin until the tube projects thru the 
hole drilled in the bottom tank. By a quick pull with 
the pliers the tube will slip out easily. 


When it is necessary to remove a number of tubes 
it is best to remove the lower tank. Drilling many holes 
in the tank is not advisable. The tube is cut thru near 
the top tank and removed thru the header as in Fig. 96. 


45. Installing Tubes in Radiators Having Cast 
Tanks—The Fordson tractor radiator and others of sim¬ 
ilar construction frequently have tubes broken by vibra¬ 
tion. This break will occur near the headers. A core 













































































































126 


The Torch 


of this type is illustrated by Fig. 48 in chapter on “ Test¬ 
ing.” These tubes when located by method suggested 
in the chapter mentioned should be pulled and new ones 
installed. It is not difficult to pull these tubes. Prepare 
the tubes to be removed by sawing in two near each 
header. Ream holes in headers to 17/64 inch. Notice 
the direction of cup on holes in fins. Prepare to pull in 
direction of this cup to avoid binding. The painter’s 
blow torch or other flood flame torch is best for this 
work. A helper should heat the tubes while the repair 
man removes them. In pulling the tubes the core should 
be stood on edge and secured to resist the pull. Start 
at lower tubes and work up. The heat passing upward 
between fins and tubes will preheat the upper tubes to 
be removed. Do not be afraid to use plenty of heat, 
as long as torch does not overheat the fins. Keep it 
moving rapidly along the tube. A short length of one- 
quarter inch rod is inserted thru the header and fins, 
squarely against the end of tube and tapped lightly 
with hammer. When the tube is moved out an inch or 
so thru the opposite header, grasp with pliers and draw 
out quickly. The torch can be moved from a tube as 
soon as it starts by plier pull. Helper will then apply 
heat to the next tube and it will be ready as soon as the 
repair man can start it with rod and hammer. When 
new tubes are in place, be sure to solder every tube to 
fins as the perfection of cooling depends greatly on this 
connection. 


46. Installing Finned Tubes—The removal and in¬ 
sertion of tubes in the finned tube radiator illustrated in 
Fig. 97 is not at all difficult. The damaged tube is cut 
in two and removed after heating at the joint in the 
headers. The solder is removed from the hole in the 
header and the new finned tube is inserted thru one 
header then slipped back to enter the corresponding hole 


The Torch 


127 



Fig. 97 

Replacing Finned Tubes 


in the opposite header. The inner tubes are inserted and 
soldered before the outer ones are placed. 

47. Removing Brass Tubes—If upon examination 
the tubes are found to he of brass more care must be 
exercised in their removal. If the following method is 
used they can be pulled successfully. The tube should 
be sawed thru at three points as in Fig. 94. The needle 
nose pliers are used to break the fins loose from the tube 
for a distance of about two inches on each side of the 
middle cut. Heat is then applied to the tube beyond this 
loosened portion. When the solder is molten the tube 
is slowly rolled on the pliers. The fins that have been 
broken loose cool the tube as it passes thru them and 






128 


The Torch 



Soldering Finned Tube to Header 


it is cool enough to withstand the rolling on the pliers. 
A small flame is best for this work, and care must be 
exercised at all times to avoid heating the fins that have 
been broken loose from the tube. The remaining portion 
may be removed in like manner and the new tube in- 
stalled as described. 

Removing and replacing the broken tubes in a badly 
frozen core does not justify the expense. If the radiator 
is so badly damaged by frost that the seams can not be 
closed and soldered the proper method is to install a new 
core. The installation of a tube of smaller diameter inside 
the old tube is not a good repair since the inner tube is in¬ 
sulated by the dead air space between the two tubes, 
materially reducing the efficiency of the radiator. 

48. Splicing a Tube—If the radiator is in such a 
damaged condition other than the fan cut or other muti¬ 
lation of tubes from collision, etc., that it does not justify 



















The Torch 


129 



Fig. 99 

Fins Cut and Bent to Expose Outer Tube 


installing new tubes, a neat repair can be effected by 
splicing the tube. Cut tube above and below the damaged 
portion with the saw. Either remove the fins or bend 
them out of the way as shown by Fig. 99, to a point a 
little above and below the sawed out portion. Remove 
the piece. 



Round up the ends of the projecting tubes, remov¬ 
ing the ragged edge left by saw. With round acid swab, 
scrub the inside of tube ends with muriatic acid. Cut a 
piece of new tube that will just fit between ends of pro¬ 
jecting tube. A Y-shape should be filed in one end as 
shown in Fig. 100. Two collars are formed that fit loose- 


























130 


The Torch 


1 y in tubes. These collars should be of about 36 gauge 
brass one-half inch long. One of these collars is inserted 
half way in one projecting end and soldered. Slip collar 
“B” back flush with end of repair tube. Put the repair 
tube in place with “V” outward, and opposite end over 
the fastened collar. With point of knife or sharp pointed 
scratclier, pry the loose collar down into the end of tube. 
Apply flux and solder carefully, filling the “V” cut, 
with solder. Test for leaks, replace fins and paint. This 
repair defies detection if properly done. 

If this radiator is ever frozen, the tube will be 
swelled between the joints of this splice. The collars 
inside reduce the size of tube at the two points. There 
being less water here it freezes solid more quickly. The 
expansion of the penned up water breaks the section 
inserted as a splice. 

Any splice has this fault for no matter how it is 
accomplished, a very small amount of solder entering the 
tube will decrease the size and cause a rupture when 
tube is frozen. 

A splice that has not the good appearance of this 
first method can be made by placing the collars outside 
of joints. The same preparation is necessary except that 
tube ends are cleaned outside and the V is not cut in the 
repair tube. The repair tube is cut to wedge tightly in 
place. See “M” in Fig. 101. Collars are cut from 36 
gauge brass one-half inch wide and long enough to reach 
around tube with lap. In order to make a collar fit tight 
around a tube, a lock seam may be formed as follows: 
Pass the brass strip around the tube and grasp both ends 
with the small flat nose pliers breaking an edge on each 
end of collar. One edge should be one-half the length 
of the other. Bend the longer edge flat over the shorter 
one, then flatten the standing seam against tube. Tin¬ 
ners have used this seam, particularly in roof work. 


The Torch 


131 



Fig. 101 

Splicing a Tube with Outside Collar 


This lock seam can be turned to the back side of tube 
out of sight and the joints soldered. If too much solder 
is used the splice will have the same bad feature as the 
previous one. To avoid the accumulation of solder on 
the inside of tube, clean with scraper instead of acid. 
The lime deposit inside the tubes will prevent the solder 
from taking. Any small lump will fall out of tube when 
radiator is righted. 

This splice can be used where tubes are broken by 
vibration near the headers. However the stiffening of 
the tube back from header throws a strain on it and 
another break will occur if the splice itself does not break. 

49. Resoldering Face Seam in Honey Comb Core— 

The edge of tube walls are soldered by dipping the honey 
comb core in solder as explained in Chapter 2. This 
seam is not always well soldered at the factory. Vibra- 



132 


The Torch 





iviviiiririi 


Fig. 103 

Face Seam Pried Open for Cleaning and Tinning 


tion, deteriorating effect of waters, anti-leak and anti¬ 
freeze compounds, and the effect of electrolysis in dis¬ 
integrating the solder are some of the causes for these 
leaks. It is not necessary for the repair man to test the 
radiator or to have it off the car to detect the leaks. The 
deposit of lime or other sediment will usually signal the 
leak. To the beginner it is suggested, in passing, that 
water always runs down. The leak will be found at 
the top of such deposit. If these white spots are numer¬ 
ous, an attempt to repair the core is not advised. The 
most practical method is to install a new core if tanks 
and fittings are in good condition. 

When the exact location of the leak is determined, 
apply torch flame to the seam. A very light flame is 
necessary. Turn the air down so that the flame is just 
strong enough to hold itself straight. With scratch awl 
work the edge of the two tube walls apart each way from 
the leak. Continue to open along the face seam and out 





The Torch 


133 



Fig. 104 

Face Seam in Zig Zag Opened 


at all cross connections or wings until a good solder 
joint is found. Figs. 103 and 104 illustrate such prepa¬ 
ration in two types of honey comb. For this work core 
construction is of vital importance. If the core is brass, 
extreme care must be exercised that the edge is not mu¬ 
tilated so that a bad job will result. When the unsol¬ 
dered portion is opened, clean with acid. If the core is 
copper heat the seam when acid is applied. When metal 
is clean, apply torch flame at right angles to face of core 
to avoid melting the solder in adjoining tubes. Apply 
only very small amount of solder and swab with flux. 
The flux swab and wire solder should be held in right 
hand while tinning the interior of this opening. Swab 
the molten solder along the walls until the opening is 
perfectly tinned. Do not leave any surplus solder be¬ 
tween the walls. Allow the metal to cool and close the 
opening by using a piece of tin as a gauge and the needle 
nose pliers as a closing tool. Fig. 105 illustrates this 
operation, with two lengths of the seam closed, the 
gauge inserted in third with pliers pinching the walls 



134 


The Torch 



Fig. 105 

Closing Face Seam After Tinning 


back to position. After closing run joint full of solder. 
This repair will be neat and unnoticeable. 

When these face leaks are found in heavy radiators 
it is easier to test on the bench than to lift the radiator 
in and out of the test tank. The following method will 
locate most of the leaks. Stand the radiator on the side 
over rack in bench. With hose connections and filler 
neck stopped and air hose on overflow, turn on a five 
pound pressure of air. Pour water in air cells near the 
top of the core. Tilt the radiator slightly forward and 
allow this water to trickle down over the face of the core, 
bubbles will show locating the leaks. 

50. Repairing Puncture, Crack or Other Hole in 
Tube Walls of Honey Comb Core— The metal from which 
the radiator core is made is of necessity very thin. A 
wire or rod used to clean the air passages of dirt, trash, 
insects, and the like will puncture the metal easily. 
Vibration and metal fatigue cause cracks. The metal is 
frequently eaten out. Any of these causes will produce 
leaks back in the interior of the core. Lack of proper 
knowledge has caused many to attempt to cure the leak 



The Torch 


135 



Fig. 106 

Portion of False Tube Removed 


by plugging the air passages with solder. There are a 

few cores that can be repaired after this fashion. The 

proper repair in any case is to repair the leak itself. 

This is done so easily that there is little excuse for 

«/ 

plugging the cell. 

Place radiator in such a position that the solder will 
flow over the leak. With bench light at back of radiator 
the interior can be seen easily. In case the core is of 
water tube and filler construction a portion of this filler 
may be removed if necessary, Fig. 106 showing a section 
removed from a radiator of this type. Clean the metal 
about the leak with acid and round acid swab. Apply 



136 


The Torch 


flux and heat the spot to which a very small amount of 
solder is applied. It is often best to cut off a little piece 
of wire solder and push it in place with the wire scraper. 
As the solder melts distribute it over the metal about 
the leak with the scraper, tinning the surface. Apply 
more flux and enough solder to build it over. It is often 
best to turn on the air and squirt a little flux in cell to see 
that the job is perfectly done. Almost any flux will foam 
if a leak is left. The time gained over putting the ra¬ 
diator in the tank will pay for the flux. 


If the tube wall is cracked, it will seldom be found 
to extend from front to back of tube, but up and down 
the wall. The metal cracks with the grain. 

Occasionally, leaks will occur on the opposite sides 
of one air passage. With some torches, these two leaks 
are repaired with difficulty. If the needle flame gasoline 
torch as illustrated is being used, these two leaks can be 
successfully repaired. Adjust torch so that there is a 
good long needle flame with no brush. The hot point 
is at the end of inside light blue cone. If advantage of 
this hot point is taken the first leak repaired will not be 
opened while soldering the second. 

51. Resoldering Header in Honey Comb Core— As 

explained in “Radiator Construction” the ends of the 
tube walls are united either by lap or lock seam and 
solder, to head the water into the water tubes. These 
seams frequently leak. 

In case leaks occur in air passages just above or 
below the tank the probable location is in this seam. 
Stand radiator upright in case the leak is above bottom 
tank. Place bench light at back of radiator. Turn air 
pressure into radiator and squirt flux into air passage 
to locate the leak. (lean the header with round acid 
swab and acid. Solder after the same fashion as de¬ 
scribed in repairing an inside leak. When tinning see 


The Torch 


137 


that the solder takes into the seam. This can be proved 
by scratching along seam while hot, with V-shaped wire 
scraper. It is usually best to solder the seam entirely 
thru. Solder half way and turn radiator to solder other 
half. 

52. Resoldering Core to Tank—The tanks on honey 
comb radiators are attached to the core by soldering a 
break—either a part of tank or a strip—flat to the top 
of the core. This break or edge is usually about one- 
fourtli inch wide where it bears on the core. Vibration 
and disintegration of solder loosens the joint causing a 
leak. Use brush or thin scratcher to remove all the old 
solder melted from the joint. More rapid progress can 
be made by removing the thicker lime deposit with a 
sharp pointed tool, not necessarily scrape to solder. Use 
acid to clean the joint with radiator laying flat on bench. 
The tank and core can be separated by carefully prying 
them apart when cool. See that every part is well 
tinned. When this is done satisfactorily, stand radiator 
in a nearly vertical position to solder. The reason for 
this is to avoid running solder back into the water tubes. 
The parts being considerable distance apart solder will 
run back into tank if much heat is applied. Hold the 
torch flame on tank and flow solder back, allowing solder 
so placed to conduct the heat to the core. The full width 
of the break on tank should be sweat soldered to the head 
of core. 

Some radiators have a strip soldered to the header 
of the core. This strip is broken at right angles to solder 
to tank if the tank and core face are in line. Frequently 
it will be found advantageous to remove the header strip 
to expose the surfaces to be tinned. 

Fig. 107 illustrates the method of removing this 
strip. Run surplus solder off the joint of tank and strip. 
With the radiator on side, apply flame to the upper end 


138 


The Torch 



Fig. 107 

Removing Header Strip 


of joint. As the solder melts insert a piece of rusty 
metal, following the melting solder down the joint. The 
solder sets before the strip comes back in contact with 
the tank. When the tank is loose entirely across and the 
header strip is cool, bend it away from the tank. Heat 
the joint between core and header strip. Hold the flame 
on the strip to avoid melting header seams in core. The 
strip can be removed by pulling outward and upward 
with the pliers. 

When the part is entirely removed, the tank can be 
sprung back so that the top of core can be cleaned and 
tinned. Tin the strip and the contact on top tank before 
replacing the parts. It is often advisable to remove the 
tank entirely, renewing the tinning and soldering the 
strips to core before replacing the tank. The process 
of soldering these header strips to the core is explained 
in chapter on “Rebuilding and Recoring.” 

































The Torch 


139 


53. Installing Section in Honey Comb Core— Repair 
plugs or sections can be installed in any lioney comb core. 
The method of procedure is practically the same in all 
except that the peculiar shape of air passage or face plan 
makes some more difficult than others. 

The core illustrated in Fig. 22 is so constructed that 
the installation of one single air passage is easily accom¬ 
plished. The core consisting of drawn tubes with swedged 
ends. Each tube forming an air passage. The water 
passage occupying the space so formed around each and 
every tube. 

The method of removing tube is as follows: With 
torch or soldering iron, heat the joint around the end 
of damaged tube. With scratch awl cave in the edge of 
the one tube end so that it has no contact with other tubes 
on this face. Torch or hot iron is applied to opposite 
end of tube melting the solder. The tube should be 
pushed toward the torch using rod or screw driver against 
the end first loosened. Care should be exercised to pre¬ 
vent damage to adjoining tubes. When the damaged 
tube is projecting past the swelled end, it may be grasped 
with pliers and removed. The exposed joint is then well 
tinned, also ends of new tube. Insert the tube and pinch 
joint together with needle nose pliers before soldering. 

If a section of core is damaged by collision or other¬ 
wise, remove the mashed tubes. Any shaped opening may 
be built in. Assemble same number of new tubes to fit 
opening. A clamp may be improvised to hold the as¬ 
sembled section. Dip each face in flux and then in 
molten solder. It is usually best to make this opening 
as nearly square cornered as possible. Insert new section 
and solder around the edge on each face. 

The core illustrated in Fig. 108 may be repaired 
after the same fashion but with a little more difficulty. 
Before attempting the installation of any section, the 


140 


The Torch 


■Pi 

I IS:i^MSISSSflf I 

iliiil 


iK 


\ 


iis 

SSmumum 


. ' 


Fig. 108 

Preparation for Installing a Section 


meclianic should be very certain that he understands 
every detail of construction. In this core, water tubes 
are vertical, and easily discernable by the corrugations 
on the sides of these passages. Between each pair of 
water tubes is an idle perpendicular, also a succession of 
double wall lateral fins connecting the water tube with 
this idle perpendicular. These are in reality lap soldered 
seams. Figs. 24, 25 and 26 illustrate the construction 
of this core. 


To remove damaged portion, one rule must be fol¬ 
lowed namely: only a section having corners of 90 de¬ 
grees can be successfully installed. This does not mean 
that the plug must be square or rectangular, but any 
shape so that the 90 degree angle is adhered to. 

To cut the section from the core, a chisel made from 
a piece of old hack saw blade is best. Fig. 109 illus¬ 
trates this chisel. The only cutting edge is in the “V.” 
It is ground so on the square corner of the emery wheel. 
When straddled over a member it will guide itself thru 
the core. 

Plan to cut leaving the first good water tube each 
side of the damaged section. The water tubes and idle 
perpendiculars should be cut along a lateral (crosswise) 



The Torch 


141 



Fig. 109 

Core Chisel Made From Hack Saw Blade 


t'in. Hold the chisel flat against the side of lateral next 
to the damaged section. Cut the tubes and perpendicu¬ 
lars across top and bottom cutting one more idle prepen- 
dicular than tube. 

With chisel, cut the lateral (crosswise) fins along 
each one of these outside idle perpendiculars. Hold the 
chisel flat against the perpendicular on the side away 
from the damaged section. When these laterals are all 
cut the section will slip out easily. 

Stand radiator on side. With light needle flame heat 
the face seam along the tube. If the flame is applied 
to the side of seam next to the hole there will be little 
danger of melting the solder on laterals projecting from 
opposite side. Remove the half tube, also half tube from 
other side of hole in similar manner. At one end of 
each half tube another cut must be made. This is where 
the tube wall turns out to form the lateral (crosswise) 
fin. Cut the metal as close to the remaining half tube 
as possible in order to leave a good header at these two 
corners. 

Remove all rough jagged edges left by chisel in 
cutting water passages and perpendiculars along the top 
and bottom of the hole. A real sharp scraper or a file 

mav be used. See that the laterals here form a water 

%/ * 

tight header with water passages fully open. With raw 
acid or scraper clean the outer edge of laterals forming 
the header about three-eighths inch back from edge. Tin 
this strip, also the solder joints along the half tube re¬ 
maining on each side. 

























































































































































142 


The Torch 


If new sections are not at hand, cut a section from 
a like core. Wrecked radiators furnish parts to an ad¬ 
vantage in many cases. Barring the room for their 
storage they are very inexpensive. 

This section should be cut to correspond exactly 
with the hole already prepared in the core. One half 
water tube is left at each side of the section. The 
lateral fins form headers on this section. See that the 
edges are tinned to correspond to the tinned edges in 
the hole. The prepared section will probably be found 
a trifle large. Use hammer or pliers to buck the edges 
on one side of the section. Insert the crimped end and 
press in place. Flux applied to section and to sides of 
hole will act as a lubricant. With needle nose pliers 
clamp each joint together and solder the four sides on 
each face of the core. Water passes entirely around and 
also thru the section. But for the new solder, the repair 
can not be detected and places the radiator in as good 
shape as it was before the damage. 

Like sections can be installed in any honey comb 
core. While this is possible it is hardly practical. The 
same general principle is used. Remove one half water 
tube on each side and tie up headers across each end 
of the hole. The sides and ends of the section will have 
to follow the lines of the water tubes in these cores. 
The 90 degree cellular construction of the core in Fie. 
308 makes this installation easier than the obtuse and 
acute angles of other cores. 

A practical repair for damaged sections in honey 
comb cores is made by installing a tank and a camouflage 
in front. The method of procedure is the same as de¬ 
scribed above. One hall' water tube being removed on 
each side, care is exercised in cutting that the chisel 
is held at right angles so that the back of section removed 
can be placed in front. The spaces between water cells 


The Torch 


143 


are tied over to form headers. After tieing up the head¬ 
ers two pieces of 24 gauge brass are cut one-half inch 
larger than the hole each way. A one-fourth inch break 
is turned on each of the four edges. This edge is tinned 
and the pieces placed in the hole front and back to 
form a tank of this hole. The edges of these pieces are 
allowed to extend outward. Make the face of tank so 
formed lack three-eighths of an inch of coming flush 
with radiator faces. For false work to hide the tank, 
saw a one-fourth inch section from the back face of the 
portion removed. Fit this in the front nicely and tack 
with soldering iron. 

This repair can be made successfully and is not de¬ 
pendent on any part unprocurable. This day of tourists 
and long hauls by automotive power place the repair 
man in a position where knowledge of the method most 
adaptable means a wide reputation. It is not at all 
unusual for the repair man in California to repair a car 
carrying a New York license. 

It is not to be taken from the foregoing pages that 
the only remedy for a damaged section of a honey comb 
is either a new core or the installation of a section or 
tank. The installation of a section is a practical repair 
but will be used very seldom in the average run of re¬ 
pairing. Like some special tool it is valuable when the 
occasion arises for its use. The honey comb core is 
capable of resisting severe shocks. Probably one colli¬ 
sion out of a hundred will damage the core so deeply 
that the new section is practical. The usual collision 
brings the end of the fender against the core. In this 
case the tubes may be damaged only slightly back of 
the soldered joint in front, or the radiator may be pressed 
back against the fan bolt puncturing the water tubes. 
With the aid of the needle nose pliers the damaged 
part should be pulled and straightened back to as 




144 


The Torch 


near its original shape as possible. After so doing the 
leaks are repaired as described under 4 ‘Repairing Punc¬ 
ture, Crack or Other Hole in Cell Walls of Honey 
Core." When the core is water tight a few small pieces 
of light brass should be tinned and tacked in place to 
re-establish the face design of the core. The successful 
repair man must use the same amount of careful study 
of methods to conceal his work as lie does to repair the 
leaks. 


54. Core Damaged by Lateral Strain—The feature 
embodied in the construction of radiators that causes 
the most serious damage is the soldering of the honey 
comb core to the core channels, side walls or radiator 
support. Lateral strain thrown on a core by road shock, 
vibration, etc., centers itself on the solder joints of 
water tubes and false work at each edge of the core. 
These joints are only one-fourth inch wide often only 
one-sixteenth inch. They are designed to hold two rib¬ 
bons of metal averaging five one-thousandths of an inch 
in thickness. The result of soldering the core channels 
to the core is illustrated in Fig. 110. It is too much to 
expect the core to withstand such cross strain. 


The water tubes aside from being pulled apart are 
torn or cracked. There are two methods of successful 
repair, either a new core or the exclusion of the water 
from the torn tubes. This is known as “blocking the 
tubes out of the circulation.” A core that does not 
justify much expense can be made to serve sometimes, 
by blocking out a few tubes. To block a tube, first cut 
thru one of the tube walls about three-eighths of an inch 
from the tank. A chisel for this cutting is made of a six 
inch piece of spring wire flattened slightly at one end 
and ground as the chisel in Fig. 109. Puncture the tube 
and drive chisel thru until it strikes the opposite face 
seam. Open this cut to expose the uncut side of the tube. 


The Torch 


145 


Heat the face seams at ends of cut and pry tube walls 
apart. Continue the cut to each edge. Fold the raw edge 
back so that the inside of the tube can be cleaned with 
round swab and acid. Run a water tight seam blocking 
the water from entering the tube, both at bottom and top 
tank using a long needle flame. Work half way thru, 
reverse the radiator and finish from the other side. 



Fig. 110 

Effects of Lateral Strain 



CHAPTER 9 

REBUILDING AND RECORING 


V ERY few repair men will be able to enjoy a busi¬ 
ness that has no dull days, or possibly, weeks. 
There are rush seasons and just as surely seasons 
when work is slack. Rebuilding is the practical solution 
of this difficulty. 

In busy seasons some car owners will not wait their 
turn to have a radiator repaired. They junk the leaking 
radiator and buy a new one. Some shops have service 
radiators that are loaned to the customer while his 
radiator is being repaired. However, there is a limit 
to the number of service radiators. There is also much 
dissatisfaction that arises over the service radiator when 
it is returned in a badly frozen condition. Often the 
service radiator is better than the one left for repair 
and the car owner takes advantage of the situation and 
is negligent in returning the borrowed radiator. There 
are various methods of labeling service radiators so that 
they will be returned. The radiators may be painted 
a distinctive color so that everyone may identify the 
ownership. The radiator may be built to carry the shop 
name so conspicuously that the owner will return the 
borrowed radiator as soon as he receives notice of the 
completion of repair on his own radiator. This method 
may be of great service to the car owner and service is 
a great business motto. There is however, a question 
of whether the repair man is serving his best interests 
in this. He has money tied up in service radiators. He 
also must keep these radiators reasonably free from 
leaks. All of this is a dead expense. The plan of having 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


147 


radiators for sale proves to be a more satisfactory and 
better paying proposition. 

The plan is this. Arrangement is made with the 
jnnk man to pick over his collection of radiators. There 
will be found a great many that can be repaired easily. 
These are put in first class condition, not patched up 
hurriedly but by careful cleaning and rebuilding are put 
in good shape. These radiators are then sold to the 
men who won’t or can’t wait. If the repair man desires, 
he may allow a little better than junk price on the ra¬ 
diator traded in. A charge should be made covering 
the repair bill plus the trading price established for a 
junk radiator. This price may be varied in different 
localities, but is suggested that the price on these re¬ 
paired radiators should not exceed half the price of a 
new radiator. The owner if he is in a real rush will feel 
that he is receiving service. He does not have to lay 
up his car even the length of time it takes to repair his 
radiator. The chances are that his radiator can be re¬ 
paired and held for sale. Of course a great many ra¬ 
diators come to the shop that are not worth repairing. 
There are good parts however on almost every radiator. 
These parts can be removed, cleaned, tinned and stored 
for future use. 

It frequently happens for instance that a radiator 
comes in with a badly frozen core. Another will have 
a good core but tanks in bad shape. The good core can 
be fitted with the tanks from one or more badly frozen 
radiators. The top being useless can be removed from 
the good core in very short time. A large torch will heat 
the tank quickly. All the solder being saved. The bad 
core is cut from the good tank. The header in the tank 
and the tubes in good core are tinned and assembled as 
described in “Removing and Beplacing Top Header” in 
Chapter 8. 


148 


Rebuilding and Recoring 



Fig. 112 

Cutting Tank From Damaged Core 


These radiators should be put in the very best con¬ 
dition possible. They should be “rebuilt” and spoken 
of as such, not as repaired radiators. “ Second hand 
cars’’ are not being sold now. They are “used” cars. 
The facts are the same, but the “used” car sells better. 
Used radiators spoken of as “rebuilt” occupy the same 
class. 






Rebuilding and Recoring 


149 


These rebuilt radiators may include also recored 
radiators. There are numerous honey comb cores being 
sold for repair cores. When bought in quantity a ma¬ 
terial reduction is usually made. A number of Ford, 
Chevrolet, Maxwell, Dodge or other popular car radiators 
may be recored and sold in rush seasons as well as 
regularly. Recoring is not difficult work at all and the 
use of otherwise idle hours will be of advantage. This 
advantage results not only from the profit on these re¬ 
built radiators, but the advertising that a shop gains 
by being busy all the time. The repair man who sits 
on the bench with the loafers is advertising his leisure. 
This influences many to question his ability. Practice 
is also worth considerable. As suggested before the wav 
to learn the best repair is by dissembling radiators and 
studying their construction. It is frequently found that 
the solder from an old radiator is worth the price paid 
for the entire junk radiator. Parts may also be reclaimed 
for future use. 

55. Recoring Ford Radiator—The recoring of a Ford 
radiator will be taken up in detail. The method of recor¬ 
ing any radiator is well illustrated by the steps taken to 
make a serviceable radiator for the hard usage the Ford 
must withstand. 

The bottom tank is removed as suggested in “Re¬ 
moving and Replacing Bottom Header” in Chapter 8. 
The hose connection is removed from this tank where 
necessary, as well as the tank supports. All joints should 
be retinned. The front wall is removed from the top 
tank, see method in “ Resetting Tubes in Top Tank 
Header,” Chapter 8. The top tank braces and overflow 
tube are also removed. The radiator is then laid face 
down on a board parallel with the fins along the top 
end of the tubes. A chisel in Fig. 112 is used to cut the 
tubes from the tank. This cut should be made about two 



150 


Rebuilding and Recoring 



Fig. 113 

Top Tank Prepared for Honey Comb Core 


fin spaces from the header to avoid accidently cutting 
the header. When the core is cut away the header is 
heated and the tube stumps removed. While hot all 
the surplus solder is removed from the header. The 
cups or collars for the two back rows of tubes as well 
as end rows in the header are flattened out. This is done 
by placing the tank header upon the mandrel and using 
an oval faced hammer to pound these cups down. The 
header is then cut out with the snips. This cut is made 
along the inner edge of the end row of holes and thru the 
center of the second row of holes from the back as in 
Fig. 113. This leaves an opening in the header, one 
and three-fourths of an inch deep and about eighteen 
inches long. This can be varied according to the depth 
of the core used. 

The hammering to flatten the cups will have 
stretched the header. This buckle should be taken up 
by crimping between each pair of holes across the 
header, A in Fig. 113. This will straighten the header 
so that it will lay flat on the core strip when the tank 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


151 


is placed in position on the core. The header should 
be tinned across each end and well back along the re¬ 
maining row of holes. If the hose connection is not first 
class it should be replaced with a new one. To make a 
recore job give long service all hose connections should 
at least be removed, retinned and replaced on any make 
of radiator. 

The core is then prepared for these tanks. In the 
type of core illustrated the face edges of each header 
should be pounded down until the gaps are closed and 
the header strip will lay evenly on the header. Some 
cores are headed in a straight line and need no pounding. 
If the solder on the core is tarnished it is well to brighten 
by brushing with wire brush, before placing header 
strips. 

The header strips attached to core in Fig. 114 are 
for the bottom tank. The front strip“A” is cut five- 
eighths of an inch wide and eighteen and three-fourths 
inches long of 24 gauge or heavier. Header strip “B” 
at the back of tank is cut one and one-eighths inches by 
eighteen and three-fourths inches. End header strips 
“C” are one inch wide by two and one-half inches long. 
These brass strips are tinned in solder bath, Fig. 37. The 
folder is then set to brake strip “A” at 90 degrees in 
the center. “B” and “C” are edged the same. The 
two outside water tubes are blocked out of the circula¬ 
tion by soldering up at top and bottom, see “H” on 
each side of core. Header strip “A” is tacked in place 
with upturned edge flush with face of core. Strips “C” 
are slipped under this header strip cornering up with 
it at right angles. The wide edge of “C” lays over the 
blocked tubes at “II.” Header strip “B” is then tacked 
in place cornering up with “C.” Care should be exer¬ 
cised in fitting the header strips flat on the header of 
the core in order that little solder will be used. 



152 


Rebuilding and Recoring 



Fig. 114 

Core Strips in Place for Bottom Tank 


A well tinned soldering iron is the fastest and most 
satisfactory tool for sweating the header strips to the 
core. The iron should be held on the header strip and 
wire solder applied to the joint between the core and the 
strip. The solder should be webbed in well at end of 
water tubes as at “W.” This solder must necessarily 
be soaked down in the face of the core. Special care 
should be taken to get a good joint between strips “C” 
and the core as the greatest strain comes at the corners. 
When these strips are well soldered the bottom tank 









Rebuilding and Recoring 


153 





Fig. 115 

Core Prepared for Top Tank 


may be inserted. Tlie header strips are tapped down 
evenlv along the sides and ends of the tank after which 
the seam is soldered. 

The header strips at top end of the core are the same 
as Fig. 114 except that the hack strip is one inch wide 
and has no edge brake, see Fig. 115, being wide enough 
to cover the tube holes in the top tank. When these 
strips are soldered in place the top tank is put in posi¬ 
tion and end header strips are hammered down to bind 
the tank in place. These end headers are tacked to the 









154 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


ends of the top tank. The assembled radiator is placed 
upright on the bench with the open front of top tank 
facing the workman. The bottom of the top tank is 
soldered fast to the back header strip by reaching the iron 
in at the open front. The needle flame torch is used to 
solder the tank down to end header strips. This is the 
point of greatest strain and should be well soldered. The 
overflow tube and splasher are then put in place. The 
front of top tank is inserted back of the header strip 
and soldered. For method of replacing this front see 
description in “Resetting Top Tank Ford Radiator” in 
Chapter 8. 

The radiator is then ready for the test. Ten pounds 
pressure may be used on this new work. If the work 
is carefully done very few leaks will be found. There 
are sometimes leaks in new cores but they can be soldered 
easily as the metal is new and requires no cleaning. 

The usual fault to be found with replacement ra¬ 
diators is that the radiator supports are not strong 
enough to stand the rough usage that a Ford radiator 
receives. The bar thru the tubular core of a Ford 
radiator takes all the wrench from the springing of the 
frame cross member under the radiator. The honey comb 
core can have no such bar, hence the tank supports must 
be strong enough to stand this strain. Two regular tank 
supports, Fig. 36, sweated together and properly soldered 
on the bottom tank serve well. 

These supports must be so placed that the radiator 
will set right on the frame studs. Tliev must be so 
placed that the shell will fit nicely down on the supports 
and back against the face of the radiator. An old radiator 
shell serves as a good gauge for placing the tank sup¬ 
ports. Fig. 116 shows the tank supports in place for sol¬ 
dering. The shell U S” is placed over the radiator. The 
radiator is then placed bottom up with the front of shell 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


155 





Fig. 116 

Proper Placing and Spanning Tank Support 


and radiator against the front of the bench. The box used 
for a seat about the bench with a hole for the neck in one 
end makes a good rest. The width gauge is made of 
three-eighths inch rod. The stud holes in a bar give a 
proper distance for this gauge. 

The regular tank supports are the proper length to 
hold the bottom tank off the crank bearing on the cross 
member of the car when the radiator is in place. The 
step length of these tank supports should never be in¬ 
creased in order to make the upper end of the suppoit 
meet the shell. This should be effected by the length of 
the core, and carefully seen to before the core is installed. 
Core manufacturers are very careful not to make the 
cores overly long, but it is well to measure the core when 
the header strips have been tacked on to check up the 
length of the finished radiator. 

A little space between the shell and the tank support 








156 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


support should fit up tight against the end of the tank 
as at “F.” When the tank supports are fitted laying 
flat against the bottom of the tank and gauging up prop¬ 
erly sweat solder them fast. Much care should be exer- 
cised to see that the solder flows entirely under the tank 
support. Do not solder the upper end of support to the 
side of the core. Lateral strain on the core will soon tear 
the light metal of water tubes. 

The top tank braces should be soldered in place last. 
They should be soldered well to the top tank and to the 
core channel for about six inches down from the top tank. 
The lower end will reach the tank supports. They should 
be sprung out from the side of the core slightly and sol¬ 
dered to the top of the tank support. The lower end of 
the overflow tube should be well soldered to the top tank 
brace and lower tank to prevent any vibration. 

All traces of flux should be washed from the finished 
radiator with a clean rag and clean water. The radiator 
should be dried out thoroughly and tested dry. Radi¬ 
ators are water containers and should be tested by water 
pressure. The oxide floated by flux will sometimes seal 
a joint against air pressure. When the radiator is dry, 
the water inside will show wet from very small leaks. 

The installation of a core in any radiator is prac- 
ticallv the same as in the Ford. The core and tanks 
should be prepared the same. The length of the new core 
should be watched very carefully. It is well to take 
measurements on the radiator before the old core is re¬ 
moved so that the length of the recored radiator may be 
made to fit to the shell. Core channels should never be 
soldered to the side of a core. The core should be faced 
up on the tanks so that the shell will fit nicely back 
against the face of the honey comb. Tubular radiators 
like the Dodge and Maxwell are a little more difficult 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


157 



Fig. 117 

Heading a Diagonally Cut Core 


to face up right as the headers are peened on to the 
tanks. Allowance should he made for this. 

Some radiators have tanks that require the diag¬ 
onal cutting of the core at the corners. Some cores are 
so built that they are ready for assembly. Others are 
made up square and sawed to fit the requirements. 
Fig. 117 illustrates one of these cores. In this case it is 
necessary that the repair man “head in” between the 
water tubes. Metal pieces are cut to fit in diagonally 
from the wall of one water tube to the wall of the next 
tube. In this illustration five of these pieces have been 








158 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


inserted and soldered in place. The header formed by 
these pieces should be straight so the header strip when 
placed in position will rest flat to give a good solder joint. 

It is always advisable to block off the outside pair 
of water tubes. The lateral strain on the core will be 
taken by these two outside tubes. This keeps the ra¬ 
diator away from the shop a great deal longer. These 
two tubes at each edge of the core are not of great value 
as water carriers. 

56. Straightening a Bent Radiator—It may be well 

to state that radiators, mashed out of shape by collision, 
can frequently be straightened and repaired. It is not 
always necessary to recore a wrecker radiator. Horses 
or cattle on the highways when struck by the car do 
not puncture the core. The main damage is that the 
radiator is sprung out of shape. Some cores will not 
stand the strain. The tubes are broken off or the walls 
torn beyond economical repair. In other radiators the 
cores will endure a great wrench. 

Iso elaborate equipment is necessary to straighten 
the radiator. The shell is removed, and in some cases 
the core channels or tank braces also. The radiator 
should be laid on a level surface to determine the amount 
of the twist. If an arbor press is not to be had a block 
or timber is secured to wall or a post about eighteen 
inches from the floor. In front of this block is laid a 
piece of four by four long enough to reach diagonally 
across the radiator. The radiator is then laid across 
the block so that the sprung corner is toward the bite 
block on the Avail. A block with a face surface of four 
to six inches square is laid on the corner of the radiator 
toward the wall. The pry is arranged OA^er this and under 
the bite block, see Fig. 118. The opposite corner is held 
down by a brace, and pressure is applied to the bar. It 
is necessary to pry this corner slightly past the position 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


159 



Fig. 118 

Straightening a Bent Radiator with Pry Bar 


desired as the radiator will spring back some. The ra¬ 
diator is then laid on the level surface to test the correct¬ 
ness of the face. 

If the tank is dented it is sometimes necessary to 
remove and straighten from within. Dents in flat sur¬ 
faces can be taken out by soldering a bar of solder or 
metal to the tank and pulling the dent out. This is 
illustrated in Fig. 119. Very often a short piece of 












160 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


three-quarter inch gas pipe bent to enter the hose con¬ 
nection or filler neck can be used to push the dent out¬ 
ward. Core channels are straightened and replaced after 
the leaks are all repaired. These channels are gauged 
by placing shell over radiator and tacking the channels 
in place. 

Another method of straightening the light metal 
tanks is by the use of water and air pressure. The plug 
is removed from the filler neck after leaks are repaired 
and the radiator filled full of water. The plug is re¬ 
placed in the neck and the air hose placed on the over¬ 
flow tube. The radiator is then propped upside down 
on the bench or so that the water will bear on the dented 
portion. A ten pound pressure of air is turned on and 
the hammer used to tap on the tank about the dent. 
The reflex from each blow communicated by the water 
will force the dent outward. The dent in radiator in 
Fig. 119 could be lifted easily in this manner. This 
method should not be used however if the radiator will 
be damaged by the heavy pressure. Striking on the tank 
against a ten pound pressure produces a heavy strain 
all over the radiator. 

A radiator struck a side blow by another car in 
collision will be bent laterally. The radiator should be 
secured by the bottom tank to a strong bench or timber 
and the lever applied opposite the blow. In case ra¬ 
diator has no studs, strips may be sweat soldered to the 
sides of the bottom tank and these in turn nailed to 
a timber placed between them along the tank. The bite 
block is nailed to the timber so used and the radiator 
righted by these tweezers. 

The shell is the most difficult to straighten nicely. 
* ^ ^ new one is advised. The shell is not 

expensive and is placed on the radiator to improve its 
appearance. Machines are made for this work. The 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


161 



Fig. 119 

One Method of Lifting a Dent in Tank 


many different curves and angles limit the scope of 
work possible with the machines. The damaged part is 
not of enough value to justify much iu the way of equip¬ 
ment. The best method is to place the shell on the 
mandrel over which a cloth is spread to protect the 
enamel, doing all the pounding on the inside. A lead 
hammer, which can be home made, or a ball pein ham¬ 
mer with a smooth oval face scars but little. The best 
advice along this line is to hammer the dents out as 
carefully as possible with the regular tools. Scars are 
bound to occur on the enamel as a blow on the finished 
surface was the cause of the dent. Shops that are not 
equipped with an oven for refinishing may use an air 
drying enamel. It is poor policy to spend a large amount 




162 


Rebuilding and Recoring 



Fig. 121 

Straightening the Fins 


of time on a part that is of no more value than the 
sheet metal portion of a car whether it be radiator shell, 
fender or other part. 

57. Finishing—The radiator is so placed on the 
average automotive vehicle that the appearance is of 
great importance. The repair man has only partially 
finished the job when he has sealed the leaks. In fore¬ 
going chapters the finish lias been suggested often. 

The tubular core is not only improved by the true- 
ing up of the fins as in Fig. 121, but in order that it may 
receive the proper circulation of air to produce sufficient 
radiation. Breaks in the fins as well as flattened por¬ 
tions should be neatly repaired and a coat of non-in¬ 
sulating paint should by all means be applied. The small 
amount of time consumed will be overlooked bv the 








Rebuilding and Recoring 


163 


owner. The radiator is not understood by the majority 
of car owners. The ability of the repair man will be 
judged by the outward appearance of the finished ra¬ 
diator. This judgment is well justified. If the finished 
job is kept in mind during the process of repair, much 
unnecessary labor may be avoided upon the completion 
of the repair. 

Soldered seams should be run smoothly. No more 
time is required in doing this than for the solder to be 
left rough. A rough lumpy seam is usually the result 
of a half heated joint. A good hot iron aside from being 
more rapid is also capable of a better looking seam. 

After the job is completed the exposed repaired 
joints should be washed to remove the flux and its 
oxide products. It is not sufficient that the radiator be 
rinsed off. A small rag or brush to wipe off the soldered 
joints will improve the appearance. It will also enable 
the paint when applied to dry in an even coat. No small 
point of this kind should be overlooked. An air brush, 
operated by the air supply used for testing, is ideal for 
painting radiators. 

The radiator should not be finished merely for a 
good appearance when in place on the car, but so that 
it looks well when examined off the car. The underneath 
surface of the fins should be painted as nicely as the 
upper side. 

The water in test tank after testing numerous ra¬ 
diators will become acidulated. Should a radiator come 
in having a nickel top or unremovable shell, the water 
in the test tank should be drained off, and tank refilled 
with fresh clean water before testing this radiator 
Otherwise the acidulous water will tarnish the shell or 
nickel plating, damaging the polish beyond restoration. 


164 


Rebuilding and Recoring 


The radiator should be handled carefully. The own¬ 
er who sees the repair man spread a cloth over his bench 
before laying a nickel plated or nicely enameled shell 
down will be impressed with the care his radiator is 
receiving. If the shell is wiped off carefully with a little 
polish or cleaner before leaving the shop it will add 
materially to the high opinion of the service. 


CHAPTER 10 

POURING 


T HE frozen tubular radiator lias long been a man- 
sized problem. The inaccessibility of the inner 
tubes has marked this core as the most time con¬ 
suming of any particular repair job. The torch solves 
the problem in a partially satisfactory manner. A faster 
method has long been sought and has resulted in much 
experimenting. 


The poured bath has solved the problem to a great 
extent. There are a number of outfits on the market 
for this work. The “machines” perform well in the 
hands of a competent repair man. However it is not safe 
to say that anyone can operate one satisfactorily. A re¬ 
pair man who has had the experience of the soldering 
iron and torch method can, by a little practice, repair 
badly frozen radiators in an average of about two hours. 
It may be said that the extent of the freeze has little 
to do with the time consumed. If proper care is exer¬ 
cised there is little danger of stopping up the tubes 
and in some ways the “pouring” is more satisfactory 
than the torch method. The fins are not subjected to the 
burning heat of the torch, and are fresh soldered to the 
tubes giving good heat conduction to the part “poured.” 
It is not advised in seamless tube cores. The solder coat 
would be so thin that a good joint could not be made. 


58. Equipment— The “machine” for doing this work 
can be constructed at very slight expense in any sheet 
metal shop. The boiling vat, Fig. 35, and lead lined acid 
vat have been described. Aside from these there are 
two “machines” needed. The “pouring machine,” Fig. 
122, and the flux pan or vat, Fig. 123. The radiator may 
be dipped in flux instead of pouring it on. In that case 
a larger supply of flux is needed. 


166 


Pouring 



Fig. 122 

A Pouring Machine 


This flux pouring outfit is well illustrated, only one 
thing should be stressed, the radiator should not be laid 
flat over the pan as it is impossible to run the flux on 
the inner tubes if one is directly above the other. By 
placing the radiator on a slant it is possible to pour the 
flux on each tube. The upper tubes can not roof the 
lower ones. Solder will not take in a seam that has not 
been wet with flux. The radiator should be dry when 
the flux is poured on as it is impossible to tell when 
a wet tube is fluxed. The squirter, Fig. 92, is a great 
aid in wetting up inside tubes. This part of the process 
looks simple, but is more difficult than the solder pour¬ 
ing. It is best to turn the radiator face up and pour 
the flux back thru the core. If there is a great deal of 
this work done a dipping vat will pay. 






Pouring 


167 



Fig. 123 

Applying Flux by Pouring 


In this connection it should be said that cut acid 
is not a proper flux for this work. It dries too rapidly 
and will not give satisfactory results. It is possible to 
do the pouring using cut acid hut the time consumed 
will be so great that it is an expensive saving. In the 
process, as described in the following pages, a commer¬ 
cial flux is used that will not dry badly. If one of these 
is not procurable the flux mentioned, made by mixing 
cut acid with alcohol and glycerine will serve. 

After the radiator is wet with flux it should drain 
for a short time. The flux will be given time to soak into 
seams and cut the oxide. 







168 


Pouring 


The height of the pouring machine should he reg¬ 
ulated by the height of the workman. A\ hen the ra- 
diator is laid face down on the machine it should be just 
about waist high. The portion enclosed by the sheet iron 
box is twenty-four inches long and about fourteen inches 
wide. The depth of box should be enough to cover the 
solder pot. The solder pot is hung by a hoop with 
handles, “A,” extending out beyond the sides of the 
sheet iron box. These handles are supported by catches 
on the sides of the box. A circular collar or housing, 
about the width the pot is high, is attached to this sup¬ 
port. The lower edge is seen at “C.” Its purpose is to 
conduct the heat upward around the pot. 


The frame with two back legs has the cover attached 
and is removable. This cover “B” has an opening “M” 
across the center about two inches wide. Its purpose 
is to direct the heat thru two rows of radiator tubes. 
Under this cover is a funnel shaped piece much the same 
as the pan at “B” in Fig. 123. This funnel is perforated 
along each side to allow the heat to pass up under the 
cover “B, ?? then out at “M.” These perforations are 
made back under the cover in order to prevent the solder 
from running thru on the floor. The funnel “spout’’ is 
large enough to fit inside the top of the melting pot. All 
the molten solder poured thru opening “M” is caught 
by the funnel and conducted down into the pot. The 
heat from the burner directed upward around the pot by 
circular collar “C" keeps this funnel and funnel spout 
hot. Opening at “P" is the same diameter as the funnel 
spout. It is connected to the spout by a tube wyed into 
it. This connection should be made so that the ladle 
can be inserted at “P” and the solder dipped handily. 
The direct heat from the flame is confined inside the 
box at all points except as it passes up thru the sides 


Pouring 


169 



Fig. 124 

Soldering a Tubular Radiator by Pouring Molten Solder Through the Core 


of the funnel and is deflected back to the center by the 

t/ 

cover where it passes upward thru the radiator. 

In Fig. 124, the radiator is laid in place for pouring. 
Shields “R” and “S” are of twenty gauge iron. The 
half inch breaks at the ends span the tanks. This holds 
the shields in place as the radiator is shifted forward on 
the machine. The edges of the shields under the radiator 
are edged the same. This edge is inserted between the 
fins. The purpose of these shields is to protect the tanks 
and ends of the tubes from the heat coming up thru open¬ 
ing' “ M in Fig. 122. The shields also serve to direct the 
heat thru the frozen portion of the tubes. 

Heat is supplied by a large plumber’s pot. The 








170 


Pouring 


burner “0” has been placed on an extension pipe in 
order that the gasoline tank will be farther removed 
from the intense heat. Adjusting valve is shown at “N.” 
This arrangement also facilitates the filling of the tank 
with gasoline and pressure. Where gas is procurable it 
may be used. 


59. Pouring Frost Broken Tubular Radiators—The 

radiator is first examined for leaks. If the tubes have 
been repaired previously the lumps of surplus solder 
between the fins are run out. The fins are then straight¬ 
ened. The radiator is cleaned by boiling and acid bath. 
The cleaning must be far more thorough than is neces- 
sary for the torch process. Any little speck of dirt in 
the seam will prevent the poured solder from entering, 
and leave a leak. This is where inexperienced men fail 
on pouring. Experience is necessary to know when a 
radiator is clean. Paint is probably the most difficult 
to remove. The boiling solution should be strong enough 
to cut the paint rapidly. It is true the acid will remove 
some, but it should be moved by the boiling. 

After the acid lias been washed off thoroughly with 
the hose, the core should be looked over very carefully 
and every tube closed as nearly to its original size and 
shape as possible. A little experience makes a workman 
very proficient at this, so much so that it will be very 
hard to detect the frozen portion when the job is com¬ 
pleted. 

Alter the tubes are closed the radiator should be 
tested with sufficient pressure to make the gauge reg¬ 
ister at least five pounds. In some cases where it is 
easily seen that the whole core is frozen a test is not 
necessary nor is it possible in many instances. If the 
leaking portion is confined to a narrow strip across the 
core its bounds should be marked in some systematic 
manner. Since the radiator will remain face down in 


Pouring 


171 


tlie pouring, marks at the back of the core are all that 
are necessary. The pour should be made some distance 
up and down the tubes beyond the visible leaking por¬ 
tion. The fins should be gone over that they may be in 
correct position and straight. The radiator is then stored 
in a vat of clean water while other radiators are prepared 
for pouring. A great deal of time can be saved if a 
number of radiators can be poured at one heat. 


When the radiators are prepared they should be 
removed from the storage tank, rinsed off and dried. 
When dry the burner is started under the pot in pouring 
machine. The radiators are wetted with flux as de¬ 
scribed. One-lialf the core is fluxed from the center out 
to one side. This radiator is allowed to drain a few min¬ 
utes. It is then set on edge and another radiator fluxed 
in the same manner. About three or four radiators are 
so prepared. 

By this time the solder is hot. A low grade solder 
may be used for this pouring. In fact, lead will work. 
However solder is advisable. The solder should be kept 
at a high temperature. After skimming off the dirt and 
dross the oxide film on the surface of the solder in the 
ladle when dipped from the pot should be “ straw col¬ 
ored.” A red heat is damaging to the solder and should 
be avoided. 


The first radiator prepared should be laid on the 
“machine” as in Fig. 124. The shields R. and S. are 
placed under the tanks and along fins at the limits of the 


section to be poured. The first two rows of tubes are 
poured. The radiator is then drawn toward the operator 
so that the next two rows of tubes will be brought di¬ 
rectly over the opening, and so on until the half core 
next to the operator is poured. 


The pouring must be carefully and rapidly done. Be¬ 
ginning at one end of the tube row, in section marked 


172 


Pouring 


for pouring, pour the ladle full quickly on about a two 
inch length of the tube. As the tubes are cool at start 
the first few ladlefuls should be poured on a very short 
length. When the core begins to heat up the solder will 
flow thru more freely. The headlight, Fig. 93, should 
be worn if the natural light is not extremely good. If 
the solder begins piling between the fins at the lower 
face it should be melted out by continuous pouring at 
this point. It may be that the burner is not heating the 
solder fast enough or the solder was not hot enough at 
the start. If a pause in the pouring is made, shove the 
radiator back on cover frame so that the flux will not be 
dried off the tubes. The flux squirter is necessary to 
apply flux on tubes that appear to be black where they 
are not tinning. This squirter should be held in left 
hand continuously while pouring, that it may be used 
quickly. Do not expect the flux to shed from one tube 
to the next. Hold the squirter so that the stream will 
be directed on each tube in the row. 

The radiator will get very hot. Care must be exer¬ 
cised that the solder is not melted from the tubes where 
they enter the header. The shields “R” and “S” will 
protect them from the direct heat from the flame. How¬ 
ever the heat from the solder will loosen this header joint 
if care is not exercised all the time. If the radiator is 
getting too hot do not continue pouring, take time to 
cool the tanks. The test tank handy may be used to dip 
the tanks in if the solder starts at the header. The time 
consumed in the actual pouring is so small that the ope¬ 
rator can well afford to exercise every possible care. 

When the half of the radiator is poured, it should 
b( 1 emo\ ed Iloih the machine. The remaining portion 
of the core may be fluxed or if a number of radiators 
have been prepared, half of another is fluxed while the 
hot radiator is cooling. 


Pouring 


173 



Fig. 125 

Running Surplus Solder From a Poured Radiator 


The pouring may be finished or half another poured. 
Continue until the entire lot is poured. 

It is impossible to prevent the solder from freezing 
in lumps on the edge of the fins where it drips off into 
the machine. After the pouring is done it is necessary 
to stand the radiator on edge to melt and brush this ac¬ 
cumulated solder from the fins. The radiator is propped 
upon the side inclining forward. A large brush flame 
is applied at the top and moved down as the solder runs 
along the fins as in Fig. 125. This solder can be removed 
more rapidly by applying the torch to a narrow strip 
down the fins, than to attempt to run it from the wholq 















































174 


Pouring 


poured section at once. Flux if applied to the face of 
the core will cause the solder to run more freely. By 
weighing the radiator dry before pouring, and dry when 
finished, the exact amount of solder used can be deter¬ 
mined. Pouring should never be attempted closer than 
about one inch from the tanks. If the tubes are frozen 
entirely up to the tanks it is best to use the torch to get 
these leaks or not attempt the job. 

When the solder is removed from the fin edges the 
radiator is tested and the leaks remaining are repaired 
with the torch. The needle flame is best for this repair 
as the leaks are small and scattered. If the tubes have 
been split along the seam or if the seam has held and a 
hole is popped in the tube wall, the pouring will not have 
repaired the leak. These large leaks are unavoidable on 
badly frozen radiators. If upon careful examination be¬ 
fore attempting the repair, the core is seen to be in this 
badly damaged condition, the job should not be at¬ 
tempted. Tubes in which the lock is completely unrolled 
are very difficult to close satisfactorily. When these 
large leaks are repaired the small ones can be located 
and repaired. When all the leaks are sealed the fins 
should be straightened again preparatory to painting 
the entire radiator. 


60. Repairing Loosened Bar by Pouring—There is 
one job on the Ford radiator that has long given trouble 
that can be successfully accomplished by pouring. This 
is the loosened support bar. The radiator is given an 
acid bath that will clean the bar of rust. The fins are 
then adjusted to their proper place. Flux is applied 
to the core along the bar. The radiator is laid on the 
machine with the bar parallel and over the opening 
Shields “R” and “S” are placed to protect the 
and bottom tank. The solder is poured rapidly on 
the bar. This iron bar must be brought to the proper 


Pouring 


175 


heat and to do so each ladleful of solder should be poured 
on a very short length. It is necessary to renew the flux 
frequently as the heat will dry it rapidly. The lower 
tank should be w r ell protected from the flame during this 
operation. The entire bar will be resoldered to the tubes 
and the strain w T ill distribute itself preventing the break¬ 
ing of the tubes as they do when only a few 7 are soldered 
fast to the bar. 

Do not expect the pouring machine to perform as 
a “cure all” for radiator leaks. It is valuable inside the 
scope of its work, but w T ill only serve this far. A great 
many frozen radiators v T ill be repaired by the torch even 
after one learns the pouring method. 


CHAPTER 11 


ADVERTISING 



ETIIODS of advertising are 
in the preceding chapters. 


suggested frequently 
In order to make ad¬ 


vertising successful it is first necessary to have 


something to advertise. The mechanic must first learn 
his business sufficiently to have a basis for his adver- 
tising. The mere fact that John Jones has a well 
equipped radiator shop is not sufficient to justify much 
advertising. The equipment is necessary to do the 
work, but ability to do the work is the basis for adver- 
tising. 


There is nothing decidedly new in advertising this 
repair business. A beginner will very likely over esti¬ 
mate the value of advertising, and if immediate results 
are not visible the method will be condemned. Advertis¬ 
ing to be effective must be continuous. There is such a 
vast amount of advertising done that the more compelling 
ads receive the bulk of the attention of the public. The 
comparatively small amount of business possible to the 
small shop does not justify a large outlay for adver¬ 
tising. This fact makes it necessary that the beginner 
attract the attention of the man who lias repair work. 


A card tied to the steering wheel of the car whose 
radiator is leaking will be read more generally. The 
exact location of the shop, its phone number and any 
distinctively characteristic advantage of this shop should 
occupy one side of the card. On the reverse side may be 
some bits of advice or information to the car owner in 
short sentences. A list of “Don’ts” or “Dos” is good. 
Do not expect the owner to read a volume on repairing. 
He will only glance at the card and throw it away unless 
he is acquainted with the advertiser or greatly interested 
in having his radiator repaired. 


Advertising 


111 



o 

Don’t delay having your 
leaky radiator repaired until 
it leaks so bad you cannot use 
it. Have it repaired at once. 
You will find it cheaper in the 
end. 

Don’t put anti-leak in your 
radiator, thinking you can get 
by without soldering. You may 
stop the leak temporarily, at 
the same time you will be 
stopping more than the leak. 
When you finally must have 
it soldered, which is the only 
proper way. You have put 
yourself in for a big repair 
bill and barred yourself from 
a guarantee which we could 
have given had we had the 
radiator before it was doped. 

We must have the Radiator 
off the car. 


An Inexpensive Method of Advertising 


The method of getting these cards on the cars is the 
most difficult. A boy will tie on a few and ditch the 
rest. A good plan is to seek out some old man who is 
not able to do hard work but is honest and conscientious. 
The excitement of the fair, a carnival, or whatever the 
gathering may lie, will not detract him from his work. 
The small town shop can easily find a man of this de¬ 
scription. Larger shops will use more extensive ad¬ 
vertising plans. 




178 


Advertising 


Motion picture slides are seen by a large majority 
of car owners. The auto and the motion picture are 
closely associated. These slides can be obtained from 
a great many manufacturers of radiator supplies. The 
expense of showing them is small. 

Newspaper advertising to be effective must be con¬ 
tinuous. Spasmodic advertising will not produce large 
results. In small communities however short run ads 
sometimes pay well. 

Road signs are depended upon by tourists to a great 
extent. They should be neat and well kept. A shabby 
sign will not convince the motorist of careful workman¬ 
ship. The location to the shop should be definitely 
stated in few words in order that the passerby may be 
directed correctly. The fact that it is one mile to an 
up-to-date repair shop is good news to the tourist in 
trouble but it is not sufficient. 

Signs in garages, filling stations, tire shops and 
battery stations are good. These signs are protected and 
can be kept in good condition. 

Good illustrations are attractive. The majority of 
commercial cuts and sign painters do not produce good 
illustrations. A poor illustration is worse than none. 
Bold faced type should be used instead, if a good illustra¬ 
tion is not procurable. 

The best advertising is the shop itself. A well 
equipped, neatly kept shop, with a row of properly fin¬ 
ished radiators repaired and in evidence, will give an 
air of careful work accomplished by the workman. The 
necessity of being or appearing busy is a good advertise¬ 
ment as stated before. 

The owner gets a great deal of satisfaction in seeing 
how his radiator is being repaired. The practice of pro¬ 
hibiting the customer from seeing inside the shop con¬ 
demns itself. There is a suspicion aroused when a ra- 


Advertising 


179 


diator is taken behind closed doors for repair. Shops 
that have had a monopoly on the business can “get by” 
with these tactics. As the shops become more numerous 
the successful repair man will arrange his shop so that 
at least a part of the work benches are in view of the 
customer. It is sometimes best that a fence or screen 
be placed to divide the workman from the office or en¬ 
trance. The work however should be used as an adver¬ 
tisement. A well impressed customer will be the cheap¬ 
est of good advertising. Many successful shops are de¬ 
pending entirely on this good-will advertising. 






CHAPTER 12 


SUGGESTIONS TO THE REPAIR MAN 
REEZING is the cause of such a large number of 



the leaks in radiators, it is necessary that the repair 


man understand the causes of these leaks. Honey 
comb cores are seldom damaged by freezing. The reason 
for this is that the tubes or water channels in a honey 
comb core are flat. Expansion by freezing if it doubled 
this thin column of water would not break or damage the 
tubes, as when the ice thaws, the spring in the metal 
brings it back to the original position. The round tube 
of a tubular core contains the largest volume possible 
in the amount of metal forming this tube. Expansion 
will break the walls. 

The fact that the tube is very thin has nothing to do 
with its breaking when freezing. The tubes would break 
if the metal were one-eighth of an inch thick. Expansive 
power of freezing water is enormous. If it were possible 
to construct a solid steel ball six inches in diameter with 
a cavity filled with only one drop of water, the ball would 
be broken if this drop were frozen. 

The average car operator does not know when his 
radiator is frozen unless the circulation is stopped and 
the engine heats. Radiator cores freeze dozens of times 
to where the owner knows it once, as the heat from the 
engine is radiated through the metal thawing the ice, 
with no damage to the tubes. 

Freezing does not always break a tubular core. If 
the circulation of air is not cut off thru any part of the 
core, and the tubes are regular in diameter the freezing 
proceeds from the bottom upwards and the tubes are not 
broken. A new tube soldered up at one end, if filled with 
water and set out to freeze will not be broken by a great 


Suggestions to Repair Man 


181 


number of freezings. The water and particles of ice 
forming will be found to spew over the open end of the 
tube each time it is frozen. 

Ninety per cent of the frost broken radiators result 
from cutting off the circulation of air from a portion of 
the core. For example, a cardboard is placed over the 
lower part of the radiator. Air passes thru the core 
above this cardboard, and freezes the tubes quickly. The 
protected portion at the bottom freezes more slowly. 
Circulation is immediately stopped. The water back of 
the cardboard begins freezing in the tubes just above 
the tank. This freezing proceeds upward to the already 
frozen part. The tubes being blocked above and below 
are broken by the expansion. 

If a blanket is hung over the front of the core the 
freeze line will be found to conform to the sag of the 
cover. License numbers tied to the face of the core pro¬ 
tect the section behind them, on freezing every tube be¬ 
hind this plate will be swollen or broken. 

If the car owner would place the cardboard over 
the upper half of the core the freezing would not break 
the tubes. The idea of the card over the lower half has 
originated from misinformation. The fact that an open 
radiator begins freezing at the bottom has lead to the 
protection of this part. In practice it is not a success, 
only for the repair men. 

A little study of the statement will be enlightening 
to many. If the top of the radiator is protected and 
freezing does start, it will begin at the bottom. When 
the ice line reaches the bottom of the card, the expansion 
will pass upward and no damage result. 

The most practical plan is to cover the entire core 
or leave it entirely open. Shutters properly operated are 
a great improvement, but a frost proof cooling liquid 
is to be advised. 


182 


Suggestions to Repair Man 


Tubes do not always break when first swelled but 
repeated freezing opens the seam. The enlarged portion 
contains more water than the remainder of the tube. The 
time required for freezing is greater. When the smaller 
portion is frozen above and below, the pocketed water in 
the bagged part freezes and opens the seam. An experi¬ 
ment with swelled tubes from a frozen core will prove 
this. 

After a tubular core is frozen and repaired it is im¬ 
possible to prevent breaking in freezing weather unless 
an anti-freeze solution is used. The first freeze will break 
the seams. The seams cannot be closed so evenly that 
the diameter of the tube will not be greater or less than 
the unswelled portion. A great deal of dissatisfaction 
can be avoided by warning the car owner against the use 
of the radiator without a good anti-freeze solution. A 
tag or label printed with red ink should be tied or pasted 
on the radiator with this warning: 

CAUTION 

OWING TO THE UNEVEN DIAMETERS OF THE 
TUBES IN THIS RADIATOR, DO NOT ATTEMPT 
TO USE DURING FREEZING WEATHER WITH¬ 
OUT A GOOD ANTI-FREEZE SOLUTION. 

This advice to use a good anti-freeze solution raises 
the question of what a good anti-freeze solution is. It 
should be a solution that will lower the freezing point of 
the water and not change the boiling point. It should 
be something that is not injurious to the parts of the 
cooling system. 

Kerosene is sometimes used. It lias the low freezing 
point desired but its boiling point is so high and uncer¬ 
tain that the motor will suffer or the solder be melted 
from the radiator. It will penetrate the rubber in the 
hose in a very short time. The gas from the oil is highly 



Suggestions to Repair Man 


183 


inflammable rendering it very dangerous. It should 
never be advised. 

Some solutions contain calcium chloride. The brine 
formed by calcium chloride lias a very corrosive effect 
on the iron or steel parts. Its more damaging property 
however is its disintegrating effect on solder. While it 
does not effect brass or copper it will remove the solder 
from these metals. It is used in reclamation plants to 
remove the tinning from metals. It should not be used 
in a radiator. 

Alcohol has only one fault. It evaporates rapidly. 
Denatured alcohol should be used if it can be procured, 
if not wood alcohol will serve. The freezing point can be 
lowered sufficiently and it does not corrode or have a 
solvent action on any of the water circulating parts. 
Manufacturers of automotive radiators advise it univer¬ 
sally. The proper proportions to protect the radiator 
are given below. These freezing points are only approx¬ 
imate. They are safe. 

1-4 alcohol solution will freeze at about 0° 

1-3 alcohol solution will freeze at about 5° below 

1-2 alcohol solution will freeze at about 20° below 

If a half and half mixture of alcohol and glycerine 
is used in the above table about the same results will be 
obtained. The glycerine prevents the rapid evaporation 
of the alcohol to some extent. To keep the solution in 
the radiator correct the addition of alcohol is necessary. 
If an alcohol solution is being used a mixture of water 
and alcohol should be kept to fill with. Water alone 
should never be added to the solution in the radiator. 

In the foregoing pages the overflow has been used 
as a connection for the air hose in each instance. The 
reason for this is that plugging the overflow is danger- 


184 


Suggestions to Repair Man 


ous. The overflow may be soldered up and the air pres¬ 
sure introduced thru the petcock or other connection. If 
this is done it must be opened before the radiator leaves 
the shop. Anyone will forget at times. If the mechanic 
forgets that the overflow tube is stopped a dangerous 
accident may occur. Steam will find an outlet and if the 
car owner happens to be near the radiator he may be 
scalded. The best rule is to leave the overflow open for 
the attachment of the air hose. In this case no risk is 
taken. 

It is also suggested to the beginner that he test the 
portion of the overflow inside the top tank. A leak in 
this portion will deliver the water from the top tank 
down to the level of the leak. This test is easily made 
when the dry or water pressure test is made. 

A repair man who works in a small community will 
be able to remember all the jobs. In a larger shop this 
is impossible. Some check should be kept on each ra¬ 
diator. A dissatisfied customer will return stating that 
the radiator was repaired “a week ago.' 7 Some method 
of identification will be found convenient. To do this 
it is suggested that a number plate be soldered on each 
radiator when it leaves the shop. This number can be 
soldered on the back of the top tank, corresponding num¬ 
ber carried on the shop work ticket with the date and 
nature of the repair. 

This system will also be useful in checking the work 
of mechanics employed in the shop. Where several men 
are employed a letter for each man to key the number 
will give immediate information. These numbers can 
be prepared by the use of steel letter and number stamps. 
A supply can be cheaply made and supplied to each work¬ 
man. 

When the boiling and acid cleaning are used these 
numbers will serve as identification marks in the shop. 
Shipping tags are liable to become detached or the names 


Suggestions to Repair Man 


185 


obliterated. The number plate soldered fast is a sure 
identification. 

A shop tag that will insure the certain charge or 
credit of the amount of the repair bill will come handy. 
Fig. 126 illustrates one that will be conductive to good 
system. The upper portion is left attached to the ra¬ 
diator when it leaves the shop. The portion below the 
perforation is torn off and filed for the bookkeeper. 




























REFERENCE NOTES 
































































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